An Eco Retreat Stay in the Forests of Sweden

Dreaming of an escape today? Allow me to whisk you away to depths of the Swedish forests, and this fairytale getaway! Nestled by a lake in the southern Sweden wilderness, Urnatur, meaning 'primeval nature' is the brainchild of forester Håkan Strotz and forest biologist and edible plants expert Ulrika Krynitz. The pair are passionate about ethnobiology and the interaction between man and nature and wanted others to experience an eco-retreat where you can get away from it all and go back-to-basics. 

Made up of an off-the-grid treehouse and a series of cabins built by Håkan and decorated by Ulrika, Urnatur invites guests to stay on Sjögetorp and Renemo farms and make the most of everything the surrounding nature has to offer. Sleep in the trees or snuggle up in a cosy log cabin before taking to the lake in a kayak, foraging for berries and other delicacies or cooking supper over an open fire. You might also want to explore the farm shop for lovely local wares too! 

It does look wonderful, I have to say - and a far cry from my studio in Malmö where I am tapping away at my laptop today. 

Could you imagine spending a week or two here come summertime? If so, visit the Urnatur website for more information. 

Thinking of visiting Sweden and looking for more places to stay? Check out the holiday homes, rentals, airbnb and design hotel archives to find somewhere wonderful! You might also like to delve into my Scandinavian travel and city guide archives to plan your trip in full! Välkommen!  

Speaking of escapes, Per and I finished the summer cottage master bedroom renovation this weekend and I took my camera with me to take a few shots! We are so thrilled with the outcome - even more so since we carried out all the work ourselves. I can't wait to share the results with you on Wednesday. I hope you'll like it as much as we do. See you then! 

Niki

Photography courtesy of Urnatur, with thanks.

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Discover Malmö, the Host City of the Eurovision Song Contest 2024!

In paid partnership with Malmö Town

'And twelve points go to.... LOREEN'. Back in May, the Swedish singer and songwriter won the Eurovision Song Contest in front of162 million viewers worldwide. For Sweden this was huge, firstly because it was Loreen's second win, and secondly because I simply cannot express just how big the Eurovision Song Contest is here! Traditionally, the country who wins the contest gets to host the event the following year. And next spring all eyes will be on Malmö, the city chosen to host the Eurovision Song Contest 2024! 

Having moved to Malmö in 2004 - I certainly know a thing or two about this wonderful city and today, I'm going to put the singing aside (except for a little karaoke of course), to share some of my favourite places in Malmö with you, including cafes, restaurants, shops, sculptures, architect, museums and galleries!

Ready to discover this Southern city a short hop from Copenhagen? Step this way for my local guide! 

Stroll through the old cobbled streets and squares of Gamla Staden

Wander through Gamla Staden (the old town) which includes Stortorget - the 'big square' with its majestic buildings and beautifully restored advertising from 1900 and Lillatorg - the picturesque 'small square' buzzing with cafes and restaurants. Take some time strolling around the cobbled residential lanes behind the main sites too,  there are rows of colourful cottages to discover! 

Keep an eye out for the city's architecture, fountains and sculptures

Malmö is well known for Turning Torso - a skyscraper designed by Santiago Calatrava, and of course the magnificent Öresund bridge which spans the Öresund Strait. But make sure you keep your eyes peeled around the city for an incredible array of architecture where old meets new. For a great architectue walk, start at Fiskehoddarna and make your way along Citadellsvägen beside the canal passing Malmöhus slott (the castle), Clarion live and many other exciting landmarks. 

Throughout Gamla Staden and beyond you'll find many incredible fountains, sculptures and artwork. My favourite is 'Det Svenska Tungsinnet' by Marie-Louise Ekman - a crying man in bronze who is always sad despite the wonderful views over the canal! 

Visit the museums and galleries 

Malmö has a thriving art and design scene thanks to Moderna Museet (in a former power station), Konsthallen and Malmö konstmuseum as well as smaller galleries and museums dotted around town - all within an easy walk! You might also be lucky enough to time your visit with the Southern Sweden Design Days or Gallery Open Night! 

Stop for a fika (coffee and sweet treat)

No matter where you are in town, there will be a cafe with first class coffee and a fluffy cinnamon bun waiting for you! In the city centre you'll find the likes of Noir, Solde and Konditori Katarina near the station. But I also love to heading to St Knuts torg where you can pull up a seat beside locals in Uggla kaffebar (above) or Söderberg & Sara (below). 

You also can't get more local than Östra Kaffebaren in Värnhem (pictured below), why not make a morning of it and stroll through lovely Kungsgatan - passing Saint Paul's Church on the way. 

If you're in Limhamn (not far from Hyllie - the site of the Eurovision Song Contest 2024), head to Atelejen for a fika or brunch (below) - and pick up some ceramics made in the in-house workshop afterwards. 

The good news is, when it comes to Swedish fika, there are no limits to the number of times you can indulge yourself in one day - so, why not try out all of these places during your stay?

Shopping for clothes

Malmö town centre is filled with the usual Swedish high street stores including H&M, & Other stories, Lindex, Tiger of Sweden, Åhlens etc. But if like me, you love to discover smaller independent stores, make sure you stop by at Meloa (pictured above) on Davidshallstorg, Miloii, Grandpa and AB Småland. You can also pick up second-hand finds at Rad Susie and Björk & Frihet.

For great outdoor gear head to Naturkompaniet, Peak Performance, or Stadium. 

Shopping for design

Malmö has so many great design stores! Nordiska Galleriet (above) recently opened it's doors and is filled with Scandinavian design. 

Tucked away on a lovely old street in Gamla Staden you'll also find the independent interior design store Pepperholm (below) - which focuses on Giclée prints on paper and linen tapestries printed in Sweden as well as well as lamps, ceramics, cushions and other small items for the home (limited opening hours).

Other design stores I love include Norrgavel, Svenssons, Miloii, Bolia, Geijersgatan 53 as well as chains Lagerhaus and Granit. 

Shopping for antique and second-hand homeware

Tucked away behind Davidshallstorg, you'll find a whole host of small independent boutiques selling everything from antiques like Teddy's Antikshop (pictured above and below) and books to mid-century furniture and ceramics. Most have limited opening times but nearly all are open on Saturdays. 

While on the subject of books, seek out the 'Dawit Isaac Biblioteket - the library of banned books, it's fascinating! 

Restaurants for lunch and dinner

There are so many excellent restaurants in Malmö. I'll start with lunch spots! Davidshallstorg - a square in the town centre is teeming with little restaurants all with the option of indoor or outdoor seating. I particularly like Freja Cafe och Vinbar (above and below) which is open all day and serves an excellent breakfast, fika, lunch or evening meal. Other great brunch and lunch options include Ruths (excellent food, great atmosphere), MJs restaurant and the relaxed food hall Malmö Saluhall. On a Friday, book a table for lunch at popular Västra Station.  

Looking for something more hipster? Head to Möllevången. 

Known for its bohemian, edgy and hip vibe, Möllevången is packed with restaurants serving everything from Indian and Lebanese to Chinese and Iranian. Last Sunday Per and I spent the afternoon in the afternoon sunshine at Ramen to Biiru - a popular Japanese restaurant which is always packed with locals for good reason - the food is excellent! 

Nearby you'll find Scandwich, another favourite! You can't make reservations at either of these places so just rock up and enjoy the atmosphere while you wait for your table! 

In the evening, my favourite dinner places are Bouchon, Occo (I love the decadence of this place and the delicious mezze, plus its great for cocktails), Aster, Elsa, Atmosfär, Gustavino or Bise.  For great Asian food head to Quan (hugely popular for good reason - book well in advance) Soho or Kin Lon, a chinese restaurant with robot service! In my mind, the best Indian in town is served at Kontrast, Ghee by the Sea overlooking the sea and Öresund bridge - it's a Brantmark family favourite! 

Food shopping

Is self-catering an option during your stay? If so, you're in luck! There are many supermarkets all over town, but if you'd like to shop local, head to the farmers markets at Drottningstorget or pick up fruit and veg at the market at Möllevångenstorget (most stalls prefer cash). Möllevången is also a great place to experience Malmö's incredible cultural diversity - and you can buy ingredients for just about any dish! 

For other independent stores, Gram on St Knuts torg (pictured above) is a zero waste shop selling local, organic and sustainable products. You can also buy local eggs and freshly baked sourdough next door at Söderberg & Sara. While in the neighbourhood, take a stroll in Malmö Folkets Park - it offers an entire calendar of events as well as a host of cafes and restaurants and even a reptile centre!

Seafood on the menu? Pick up shellfish, salmon, herring, tuna steaks and many other delicacies from Malmö's largest fish market Fiskehoddarna - a picturesque row of fishing huts by the canal (seen above and below) a stone's throw from Malmöhus slott. I love to stop by for the catch of the day from Blå Hoddan, owned by the brother of a friend of mine who has is own fishing boat. In late spring and summer you can dine-in. 

Looking for some activities? 

By day, take a stroll in one of the city parks - including Pildammsparken, which dates back to the 17th century or Kungsparken, with its canal, windmill and pretty gardens - both beautiful! When friends and family come to visit I also love to rent one of the electric boats from Go Boat or BookABoat and putter around the city canals with a picnic (pick up a baguette at Picnic). 

Feeling sporty? Soak up the amazing atmosphere at a Malmö FF game (locals will tell you they are the best soccer / football team in Sweden!) or learn about ice-hockey by watching Malmö Redhawks play! 

If the sun is shining and the weather is warm, you'll find lots of action at the city beach at Ribbergsborgstranden where, in summer time you can play volleyball and basketball. In the winter, warm up at Ribersgborg kalbadhus (public sauna and pier). I was there yesterday and always leave feeling completely revived! 

For evening activities - Boulebar is always fun for dinner and boules, or get into the Eurovision spirit at the new karaoke bar Moyagi! The art deco style Spegeln is my favourite cinema thanks to the beautiful decor, comfy armchairs and in-saloon bar! For something that little extra you might like to see a performance at Malmö Opera or Malmö Stadsteater or put your problem-solving skills to the test at Sherlocked escape room, before recovering in the cocktail bar. 

Finish the night with a dance to live music on at Paddy's (Friday's and Saturdays) or bust a move among the young and hip at Plan B. 

Where to stay

MJs, Clarion and Story are all in the heart of town and offer a great night's stay. 

Finally

don't leave Malmö without picking up some chocolate from Malmö Chokladfabrik (the Malmö chocolate factory) store near the central station for some ecological dream chocolate with that little extra! 

Planning your trip? Here are five useful things to know...

1. Malmö is a near cashless city so don't exchange money in advance - credit cards are the way to go (except you would like to visit the market in Möllevången). 

2. Get around on foot or hire a bike. For longer journeys download the easy-to-use Skånetrafiken app for public transport (including the train to and from Copenhagen airport). 

3. Dress for all weather but leave your brolly at home - this is a windy city! Oh, and bring your bathers - just in case you fancy a dip in the Öresund Strait! 

4. Malmö is an understated city - relaxed clothing and flat shoes are the way to go (cobbled lanes and kitten heels do not mix well, trust me!). 

5. In my personal experience, tips are generally not offered at lunchtime but 10% is standard for dinner

I hope this guide proves useful for your visit. We so look forward to welcoming you to our amazing city for the Eurovision Song Contest 2024! 

Niki

All photography copyright: My Scandinavian Home

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15 of my Favourite Local Malmö Hangouts

Paid partnership with Malmö Town, all words and pictures are my own

When you visit a new city for a couple of days it's very exciting, but it can also be a little overwhelming, especially when you don't know anyone who lives there and you're relying on tourist guides. The good news is, in Malmö you know me! And I'd REALLY like to make sure that if you ever visit, you have the best time! In the past I've posted winter and summer guides, but today I'd like to share 15 of my favourite local hangouts. 

The cafes, bars, restaurant and even a small theatre in this list, are places I regularly go to and more often than not, know the owners on a first name basis. They are just a small selection of the independent, small businesses that make Sweden's third largest city such a special, unique and relaxed place - a city I am proud to call home! I hope you'll visit some of these on your next trip to Malmö, I promise it'll make your time here even more enjoyable! 

Let's start with some of my favourite morning hangouts. 

1. Leve bakery

We often stop by at this wonderful plant-based bakery for Leve's version of  Swedish sweet treats such as 'dammsugare', cinnamon buns and chocolate balls - and on this occasion 'pepparkaka' (gingerbread biscuits). Ask for the day's speciality (they are always experimenting with exciting new recipes). And don't miss Fredagsmunk (the Friday doughnuts), they are an institution in Malmö! 

2. Patisseriedavid

Nestled in the corner of Malmö's historical St Gertrud quarter in the heart of Malmö, you'll find Patisseriedavid, a French patisserie run by well-known pastry chef David Fernandes. If you're feeling a bit 'cinnamon bunned' out, head here for absolutely delicious French pastries that look almost too good to eat!

3. Solde

This discreet cafe is easy to miss unless you know about it! Selling arguably the best coffee in town, enjoy your cup at the Solde bar and chat to the friendly barista or take a seat on the bench beside other Malmoeites. Oh, and don't leave without buying a bag of coffee beans from the Solde in-house roastery!

4. Noir Vin & Kaffekultur

Located just off picturesque Lilla Torg, 'Noir Wine and Cafe Culture' is a great meeting place. I love to go in the morning on my way to work (nothing beats a simple coffee and croissant on the street side terrace, watching the people of Malmö go past) - or at the weekends with my girls. It's also a great place for a glass of ecological wine at the end of a long day! 

5. Miloii

Just up the street, you'll find Miloii, one of my favourite clothing and interior boutiques. Although busy, Lena is always friendly and helpful - and when time and the weather permits, we'll grab a quick coffee on the bench outside. 

6. Ruths

Formerly named Bastard, Ruths serves one of the best brunches in town. It's also great for a fika (coffee and cake), lunch and supper. There's always the option of picking up some great locally produced supplies in the deli section on your way out too! 

7. Bise

Relatively new on the block, Bise prides itself on being 'intimate, familiar and international'. It's packed with locals at lunchtime who come here to tuck into the day's special - and transforms into a popular wine and cocktail bar by night.  

8. Nostra 

Opposite Triangeln shopping centre you'll find Nostra, owned by mother and daughter team  Gaalas and Soma. The interior has a relaxed, minimalist, Scandinavian vibe. Enjoy great sandwiches and a soup of the week or visit at the weekend for the all-day brunch. Order a cappuccino made from their own exclusively roasted beans, it's delicious! 

9. Marvin

A new kid on the block, Marvin on Davidshallstorg is where I go for my English pie fix - with other British friends (after all, you can take a girl out of England, but you can't take England out of the girl!). Experienced British chef Matthew Young creates the most delicious and beautifully presented pies (think chicken and leek, steak and ale  mushroom and Parmesan etc) and other English classics such as scotch eggs in a small, cosy and minimalistic setting. Needless to say, it quickly fills up at lunchtime so get there early.  

10. AB Småland

I simply wouldn't allow anyone to visit Malmö without a wander in the green lifestyle store AB Småland. It has everything: beautiful second hand and vintage interior items, a cafe and restaurant and lots of events (hence why it's made my hangout list!). 

11. Pivo

Nestled on a corner near Stor Torget, Pivo serves Czech food (tuck into their gulasch soup!) and beer in a cosy bar, which overflows onto the street in warmer weather. 

12. Victoria Teatern

Victoria Theater is a favourite among locals and touring bands - and not a month or two go by without Per and I booking a ticket for a gig.  Keep an eye on the events calendar to see which bands will be in town and make sure you book a small table so you can bring your own picnic. The atmosphere is cosy, understated and relaxed. 

13. Julie

If I'm meeting a friend, I'll often head to the relaxed, yet award winning Julie -a small wine bar in the old town for a catch up over a glass or three of wine and their delicious oven baked mont d'or cheese - made for dipping! My mouth is watering just thinking about it! 

14. Aster 

Tucked away in an industrial area not far from the central station, Aster is one of my go-to restaurants for a celebration or bigger gatherings. The in-season dishes are delicious, the service is great and there's always a lively crowd. Book in advance, and don't miss their cocktails!  

15. L'énoteca

And finally, Per and my favourite wine bar - L'énoteca. The friendly cosy, candlelit bar, just off pretty Lilla Torg offers an assortment of over 300 different types of wine which have been carefully selected from small, independent winemakers who work sustainably, ecologically and with great care for the environment. Tell the friendly staff the type of aroma and taste you like, and they will guide you through a mini tasting until you find just the wine for you! 

Bonus hangout: something you shouldn't miss if you are in Malmö: a falafel! Everyone has their go-to place and mine is 'Super Falafel' (I always opt for 'everything' with mixed sauce, sometimes a little feta cheese too!). You'll find places serving falafel all over town, it's a great and inexpensive way to refuel! 

I hope this list of my favourite local hangouts proves useful on your next visit to Malmö! I always think it's nice to have some insider tips so you can find the places you might not discover otherwise. 

You might also like to see some of my other Malmö guides including: 

20 things to enjoy in Malmö in wintertime

30 things to do in Malmö for design lovers

Would you like to peek inside a few Malmö homes too? Here are some I've featured recently: 

The cosy, vintage-style home of a Malmö florist 

A Malmö home full of design classics and art

Malin's atmospheric family home (we're actually meeting for lunch today - her home is even more beautiful in real life!)

Right friends, that's it from me this week. I think I might just head to one of the above places tonight. I hope you've got some fun plans too!

See you Monday!

Niki

A big thank you to my partner in crime Sarah Wilson. daughter Allie and Per for helping me capture my favourite local haunts! 

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