Exploring Hallands Väderö: Sweden’s Wild and Peaceful Island

Sponsored post, all words are my own, and I only ever work with brands I love and think you will too. 

Do you have a favourite island?

That’s the question Skandinavisk asked in celebration of their ØY fragrance – a collection with notes of water mosses, dog rose, crabapple and green leaves, inspired by the solitude and raw beauty of the Nordic islands (keep a lookout for the discount code at the end of this post). 

There’s something magical about the word island, isn't there? It conjures images of wind-blown shores, untouched nature, and life lived at a slower pace. Coming from a sailing family, I’ve been lucky to explore many islands – which isn’t hard when you live in Sweden, the country with more islands than anywhere else in the world (true story!). But my heart always returns to one close to home.

Just a kilometre off the coast of Torekov, where we have our little cabin, lies Hallands Väderö – a 3-square-kilometre, car-free nature reserve where seals lounge on sun-warmed rocks and ancient trees line quiet forest paths. It’s both wild and serene.

Arriving by ferry from Torekov to Sandhamn on a relaxing day trip, you leave behind more than just the mainland—you leave behind the rush of everyday life. Instead, you're greeted by stillness, fresh sea air, and a sense of something timeless.

Let me take you there today!

The ØY hand cream is so lovely and light yet nourishing - I always have it in my bag! It's made with Swedish rapeseed oil – and smells just like a breath of fresh island air. 

Getting there

Hallands Väderö is completely uninhabited, apart from a handful of simple summer cottages tucked among the trees. The only way to reach the island is by boat—and thankfully, a ferry runs from Torekov year-round (see the schedule). When the ferry arrives at Sandhamn, there’s no traffic, no shops – just a few wooden trolleys waiting at the dock. They’re there for the lucky cottage owners to load up with food, clothes, books, and board games – everything needed for slow days and quiet nights, all wheeled through the forest to their front door. The only sign of service is a small, charming café that opens during the summer months – just enough for an ice cream, a coffee, or a slice of something sweet after a swim.

Exploring the island

When our children were little, we’d often spend whole days on the sandy beach in Sandhamn – building forts, collecting shells, and watching the hours drift by. These days, we’ll usually pick one of the many marked trails that weave across the island, each one signposted with different coloured wooden stakes. Our first port of call is often Kappelhamn for a swim.

To reach Kappelhamn, the trail leads through a mix of open meadows where horses roam, and deep, shady forests where moss carpets the ground and the air smells of pine and sea. Keep a look out for the English graveyard – a forgotten resting place for shipwrecked sailors, hidden among the trees and weathered by time. 

Kappelhamn

On the southern side of the island lies Kappelhamn – a favourite spot for boat daytrippers and island bathers. It feels like a tiny archipelago, with its mix of sandy beaches, sun-warmed cliffs, smooth skerries, and a bathing platform. Tucked into the landscape are a handful of off-grid summer cottages – simple and secluded, with sweeping views over the Kattegat. There’s no electricity, just the rhythm of the sea and the quiet luxury of living in tune with nature (rain or shine!). 

  

The ØY Wash (500ml) is ideal for the shower (we have it in our cabin). I love that it's naturally made with Swedish oat fibre and organic aloe vera to soothe and hydrate. One of the scent notes is dog rose, which is found in abundance on Hallands Väderö. 

The clear waters around the island can get surprisingly warm in summer – up to 22°C (that’s 72°F!), which definitely counts as tropical by Swedish standards. Even on chillier days, a quick dip is wonderfully refreshing. I’ll admit, I’m what Swedes affectionately call a badkruka – a “bathing pot” – basically someone who takes forever to get in (and often doesn’t). Per, on the other hand, is a proper Viking and swims year-round without so much as a flinch. So yes, pack your bathers – whether you're a badkruka or a seasoned bather, the sea is always waiting.

The ØY lotion (500 ml) is super nourishing yet sinks in fast – perfect for after a swim. My girls really love it too!

 

To the lighthouse

No visit to the island is complete without a walk to Hallands Väderö Lighthouse. The trail between Kappelhamn and the lighthouse takes you past the old farm – red barns, a few slow-moving cows – a quiet reminder of the island’s farming past. From there, things get a bit more rugged and marshy as you reach the exposed western coast, where the Kattegat winds pick up. Wooden boardwalks and coastal trails lead you out to the lighthouse – a white tower that’s been calmly guiding ships for over a hundred years. You can’t go in, but just getting there is half the experience – big skies, sea air, and that wide-open feeling you only get at the edge of an island. And I’ll admit, the walk feels slightly easier these days without a toddler on our backs.

In spring and early summer, Hallands Väderö quietly bursts into bloom. The meadows and forest edges are scattered with wood anemones, bird’s-foot trefoil, violets, and even the occasional wild orchid. As summer deepens, you’ll find hardy coastal blooms like sea thrift, wild thyme, and yarrow, clinging to the sun-baked cliffs and open fields. It’s a gentle, low-key kind of beauty – nothing too dramatic – but full of life if you stop and take it in. 

Staying the night

Just beside the lighthouse, Fyrplatsen—the island’s original refuge for overnight stays—is perfect for anyone wanting to linger a little longer… or for stragglers who (like us, nearly a few times) miss the 4 pm ferry. Perched out on the wild western tip,the self-catered stay is a pretty exciting place to spend the night, and well worth lugging your clothes, food, and board games all the way out there. Alternatively, Skogvaktaregården also offers overnight accommodation, nestled within the island’s peaceful landscape.

That said, I do love heading back to Torekov and our little cabin at the end of the day – cheeks rosy, candle lit, and a glass of wine in hand. Bliss! 

I hope you’ve enjoyed this little visit to my favourite island. If you can’t get there yourself, the next best thing might just be the ØY Island Solitude collection from Skandinavisk – it’s like the feeling of the island, bottled up in scent! As a little gift from me, you can get 20% off throughout July on all fragrances from Skandinavisk with the code island20. 

I’d love to hear about your favourite island too, please do share in the comments below if you'd like. 

I'll be back on Friday with a very charming tour. See you then! 

Niki

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An Eco Retreat Stay in the Forests of Sweden

Dreaming of an escape today? Allow me to whisk you away to depths of the Swedish forests, and this fairytale getaway! Nestled by a lake in the southern Sweden wilderness, Urnatur, meaning 'primeval nature' is the brainchild of forester Håkan Strotz and forest biologist and edible plants expert Ulrika Krynitz. The pair are passionate about ethnobiology and the interaction between man and nature and wanted others to experience an eco-retreat where you can get away from it all and go back-to-basics. 

Made up of an off-the-grid treehouse and a series of cabins built by Håkan and decorated by Ulrika, Urnatur invites guests to stay on Sjögetorp and Renemo farms and make the most of everything the surrounding nature has to offer. Sleep in the trees or snuggle up in a cosy log cabin before taking to the lake in a kayak, foraging for berries and other delicacies or cooking supper over an open fire. You might also want to explore the farm shop for lovely local wares too! 

It does look wonderful, I have to say - and a far cry from my studio in Malmö where I am tapping away at my laptop today. 

Could you imagine spending a week or two here come summertime? If so, visit the Urnatur website for more information. 

Thinking of visiting Sweden and looking for more places to stay? Check out the holiday homes, rentals, airbnb and design hotel archives to find somewhere wonderful! You might also like to delve into my Scandinavian travel and city guide archives to plan your trip in full! Välkommen!  

Speaking of escapes, Per and I finished the summer cottage master bedroom renovation this weekend and I took my camera with me to take a few shots! We are so thrilled with the outcome - even more so since we carried out all the work ourselves. I can't wait to share the results with you on Wednesday. I hope you'll like it as much as we do. See you then! 

Niki

Photography courtesy of Urnatur, with thanks.

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Discover Malmö, the Host City of the Eurovision Song Contest 2024!

In paid partnership with Malmö Town

'And twelve points go to.... LOREEN'. Back in May, the Swedish singer and songwriter won the Eurovision Song Contest in front of162 million viewers worldwide. For Sweden this was huge, firstly because it was Loreen's second win, and secondly because I simply cannot express just how big the Eurovision Song Contest is here! Traditionally, the country who wins the contest gets to host the event the following year. And next spring all eyes will be on Malmö, the city chosen to host the Eurovision Song Contest 2024! 

Having moved to Malmö in 2004 - I certainly know a thing or two about this wonderful city and today, I'm going to put the singing aside (except for a little karaoke of course), to share some of my favourite places in Malmö with you, including cafes, restaurants, shops, sculptures, architect, museums and galleries!

Ready to discover this Southern city a short hop from Copenhagen? Step this way for my local guide! 

Stroll through the old cobbled streets and squares of Gamla Staden

Wander through Gamla Staden (the old town) which includes Stortorget - the 'big square' with its majestic buildings and beautifully restored advertising from 1900 and Lillatorg - the picturesque 'small square' buzzing with cafes and restaurants. Take some time strolling around the cobbled residential lanes behind the main sites too,  there are rows of colourful cottages to discover! 

Keep an eye out for the city's architecture, fountains and sculptures

Malmö is well known for Turning Torso - a skyscraper designed by Santiago Calatrava, and of course the magnificent Öresund bridge which spans the Öresund Strait. But make sure you keep your eyes peeled around the city for an incredible array of architecture where old meets new. For a great architectue walk, start at Fiskehoddarna and make your way along Citadellsvägen beside the canal passing Malmöhus slott (the castle), Clarion live and many other exciting landmarks. 

Throughout Gamla Staden and beyond you'll find many incredible fountains, sculptures and artwork. My favourite is 'Det Svenska Tungsinnet' by Marie-Louise Ekman - a crying man in bronze who is always sad despite the wonderful views over the canal! 

Visit the museums and galleries 

Malmö has a thriving art and design scene thanks to Moderna Museet (in a former power station), Konsthallen and Malmö konstmuseum as well as smaller galleries and museums dotted around town - all within an easy walk! You might also be lucky enough to time your visit with the Southern Sweden Design Days or Gallery Open Night! 

Stop for a fika (coffee and sweet treat)

No matter where you are in town, there will be a cafe with first class coffee and a fluffy cinnamon bun waiting for you! In the city centre you'll find the likes of Noir, Solde and Konditori Katarina near the station. But I also love to heading to St Knuts torg where you can pull up a seat beside locals in Uggla kaffebar (above) or Söderberg & Sara (below). 

You also can't get more local than Östra Kaffebaren in Värnhem (pictured below), why not make a morning of it and stroll through lovely Kungsgatan - passing Saint Paul's Church on the way. 

If you're in Limhamn (not far from Hyllie - the site of the Eurovision Song Contest 2024), head to Atelejen for a fika or brunch (below) - and pick up some ceramics made in the in-house workshop afterwards. 

The good news is, when it comes to Swedish fika, there are no limits to the number of times you can indulge yourself in one day - so, why not try out all of these places during your stay?

Shopping for clothes

Malmö town centre is filled with the usual Swedish high street stores including H&M, & Other stories, Lindex, Tiger of Sweden, Åhlens etc. But if like me, you love to discover smaller independent stores, make sure you stop by at Meloa (pictured above) on Davidshallstorg, Miloii, Grandpa and AB Småland. You can also pick up second-hand finds at Rad Susie and Björk & Frihet.

For great outdoor gear head to Naturkompaniet, Peak Performance, or Stadium. 

Shopping for design

Malmö has so many great design stores! Nordiska Galleriet (above) recently opened it's doors and is filled with Scandinavian design. 

Tucked away on a lovely old street in Gamla Staden you'll also find the independent interior design store Pepperholm (below) - which focuses on Giclée prints on paper and linen tapestries printed in Sweden as well as well as lamps, ceramics, cushions and other small items for the home (limited opening hours).

Other design stores I love include Norrgavel, Svenssons, Miloii, Bolia, Geijersgatan 53 as well as chains Lagerhaus and Granit. 

Shopping for antique and second-hand homeware

Tucked away behind Davidshallstorg, you'll find a whole host of small independent boutiques selling everything from antiques like Teddy's Antikshop (pictured above and below) and books to mid-century furniture and ceramics. Most have limited opening times but nearly all are open on Saturdays. 

While on the subject of books, seek out the 'Dawit Isaac Biblioteket - the library of banned books, it's fascinating! 

Restaurants for lunch and dinner

There are so many excellent restaurants in Malmö. I'll start with lunch spots! Davidshallstorg - a square in the town centre is teeming with little restaurants all with the option of indoor or outdoor seating. I particularly like Freja Cafe och Vinbar (above and below) which is open all day and serves an excellent breakfast, fika, lunch or evening meal. Other great brunch and lunch options include Ruths (excellent food, great atmosphere), MJs restaurant and the relaxed food hall Malmö Saluhall. On a Friday, book a table for lunch at popular Västra Station.  

Looking for something more hipster? Head to Möllevången. 

Known for its bohemian, edgy and hip vibe, Möllevången is packed with restaurants serving everything from Indian and Lebanese to Chinese and Iranian. Last Sunday Per and I spent the afternoon in the afternoon sunshine at Ramen to Biiru - a popular Japanese restaurant which is always packed with locals for good reason - the food is excellent! 

Nearby you'll find Scandwich, another favourite! You can't make reservations at either of these places so just rock up and enjoy the atmosphere while you wait for your table! 

In the evening, my favourite dinner places are Bouchon, Occo (I love the decadence of this place and the delicious mezze, plus its great for cocktails), Aster, Elsa, Atmosfär, Gustavino or Bise.  For great Asian food head to Quan (hugely popular for good reason - book well in advance) Soho or Kin Lon, a chinese restaurant with robot service! In my mind, the best Indian in town is served at Kontrast, Ghee by the Sea overlooking the sea and Öresund bridge - it's a Brantmark family favourite! 

Food shopping

Is self-catering an option during your stay? If so, you're in luck! There are many supermarkets all over town, but if you'd like to shop local, head to the farmers markets at Drottningstorget or pick up fruit and veg at the market at Möllevångenstorget (most stalls prefer cash). Möllevången is also a great place to experience Malmö's incredible cultural diversity - and you can buy ingredients for just about any dish! 

For other independent stores, Gram on St Knuts torg (pictured above) is a zero waste shop selling local, organic and sustainable products. You can also buy local eggs and freshly baked sourdough next door at Söderberg & Sara. While in the neighbourhood, take a stroll in Malmö Folkets Park - it offers an entire calendar of events as well as a host of cafes and restaurants and even a reptile centre!

Seafood on the menu? Pick up shellfish, salmon, herring, tuna steaks and many other delicacies from Malmö's largest fish market Fiskehoddarna - a picturesque row of fishing huts by the canal (seen above and below) a stone's throw from Malmöhus slott. I love to stop by for the catch of the day from Blå Hoddan, owned by the brother of a friend of mine who has is own fishing boat. In late spring and summer you can dine-in. 

Looking for some activities? 

By day, take a stroll in one of the city parks - including Pildammsparken, which dates back to the 17th century or Kungsparken, with its canal, windmill and pretty gardens - both beautiful! When friends and family come to visit I also love to rent one of the electric boats from Go Boat or BookABoat and putter around the city canals with a picnic (pick up a baguette at Picnic). 

Feeling sporty? Soak up the amazing atmosphere at a Malmö FF game (locals will tell you they are the best soccer / football team in Sweden!) or learn about ice-hockey by watching Malmö Redhawks play! 

If the sun is shining and the weather is warm, you'll find lots of action at the city beach at Ribbergsborgstranden where, in summer time you can play volleyball and basketball. In the winter, warm up at Ribersgborg kalbadhus (public sauna and pier). I was there yesterday and always leave feeling completely revived! 

For evening activities - Boulebar is always fun for dinner and boules, or get into the Eurovision spirit at the new karaoke bar Moyagi! The art deco style Spegeln is my favourite cinema thanks to the beautiful decor, comfy armchairs and in-saloon bar! For something that little extra you might like to see a performance at Malmö Opera or Malmö Stadsteater or put your problem-solving skills to the test at Sherlocked escape room, before recovering in the cocktail bar. 

Finish the night with a dance to live music on at Paddy's (Friday's and Saturdays) or bust a move among the young and hip at Plan B. 

Where to stay

MJs, Clarion and Story are all in the heart of town and offer a great night's stay. 

Finally

don't leave Malmö without picking up some chocolate from Malmö Chokladfabrik (the Malmö chocolate factory) store near the central station for some ecological dream chocolate with that little extra! 

Planning your trip? Here are five useful things to know...

1. Malmö is a near cashless city so don't exchange money in advance - credit cards are the way to go (except you would like to visit the market in Möllevången). 

2. Get around on foot or hire a bike. For longer journeys download the easy-to-use Skånetrafiken app for public transport (including the train to and from Copenhagen airport). 

3. Dress for all weather but leave your brolly at home - this is a windy city! Oh, and bring your bathers - just in case you fancy a dip in the Öresund Strait! 

4. Malmö is an understated city - relaxed clothing and flat shoes are the way to go (cobbled lanes and kitten heels do not mix well, trust me!). 

5. In my personal experience, tips are generally not offered at lunchtime but 10% is standard for dinner

I hope this guide proves useful for your visit. We so look forward to welcoming you to our amazing city for the Eurovision Song Contest 2024! 

Niki

All photography copyright: My Scandinavian Home

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