Malmö by the Sea: My Local Guide to Sweden's Coastal City

In paid partnership with Malmö Town /  all words and pictures are my own.

Hej där vänner! As many of you know, I've lived in Malmö for over 22 years (where did the time go?), and summer has always been my favourite season. As soon as the sun comes out, the coastline comes alive. People flock to the beaches, cool off in the sea, play volleyball, linger over drinks by the water, and gather to watch those long, beautiful sunsets.

For me, life by the sea is one of Malmö's greatest joys. From morning dips and saunas to beach cafés, sunset spots and waterside restaurants, here are some of my favourite ways to enjoy summer on Malmö's coast, in case you fancy coming for a visit!

City centre and Dockan

One of the best things about Malmö is that you're never far from the water. On a sunny day, grab a pedal boat or hire a small motorboat from Book a Boat and set off to explore the city's canals and waterways. Don't forget to pack a picnic, and then cruise past waterside cafés, leafy parks, and enjoy seeing Malmö from a whole new angle. It's one of my favourite summer activities in the city.

City centre and Dockan

Feeling peckish? Grab fish and chips and a chilled glass of rosé by the harbour at Fisky Business or settle in at Cantin for tasty street food and summer vibes by the water.

Västra Hamnen

Västra Hamnen is my neck of the woods, and I feel really lucky as I think it's one of the best places to spend a summer's day in Malmö. Once an industrial shipyard, it's now home to Turning Torso designed by the world famous architect Santiago Calatrava, and a vibrant waterfront neighbourhood where locals and visitors alike come to swim, sunbathe, stroll along the boardwalk and enjoy life by the sea.

It's a great place to take a dip from one of the many bathing decks, settle in with a picnic, or simply sit back and watch the boats glide by, with famous Öresund bridge and the city of Copenhagen visible in the distance. 

There's always something happening in Västra Hamnen, from sunset salsa dancing to live bands by the sea. This week, a pop-up sauna rolled in, and Tobias treated guests to a sauna and cold-water dip as well as other rituals. It's one of the many reasons I love calling this neighbourhood home.

Make sure you take a wander around the neighbourhood and soak up the architecture. Much of Västra Hamnen was built as part of the Bo01 housing exhibition in 2001, a pioneering project that put sustainable living on the map and transformed the old shipyard into the vibrant waterfront district we know today. I never tire of strolling these streets, there's always a new detail to spot.

Once you've worked up an appetite, you're spoiled for choice. On a sunny day, grab a table at Beach Garden for laid-back seaside vibes, or book a spot at Kontrast (my pick for the best Indian food in town!), or next door, slurp your way through a bowl of ramen or tuck into sushi.

Ribbersborg

Just a few minutes' walk away is Ribersborg beach. With its long stretch of sand and shallow waters, it's especially popular with families. In fact, I spent many happy summer days here when my children were small, building sandcastles, paddling in the sea and enjoying picnics by the shore.

These days, the coastline buzzes with activity all summer long, from beach volleyball and basketball to yoga sessions by the sea. It's a wonderful place to soak up Malmö's laid-back summer atmosphere."

There are countless ways to enjoy the sea here. We love to sail, but if you're just in town for the weekend, you can try everything from wakeboarding and paddle boarding at Malmö Wake Park. Many of the kayaks can be rented through an app, making it easy to head out for an adventure at a moment's notice. The lack of tides makes the water feel a little less intimidating, but always keep an eye on the wind and weather before setting off.

While I've already mentioned saunas, no guide to Malmö's coastline would be complete without Ribersborgs Kallbadhus. Perched at the end of a long pier stretching into the Öresund, this iconic wooden sauna is a true Malmö institution. It's one of the first places my friends and family ask to visit when they come to stay (pictured here are my nieces racing down the pier towards it!), and somewhere I regularly visit with friends too.

The routine is simple: sauna, sea dip, repeat. And don't forget, swimwear stays at home, as bathing is traditionally enjoyed au naturel in separate men's and women's sections. Afterwards, warm up over lunch or a coffee at the café at the end of the pier. Perfect if the weather gods aren't quite cooperating, it is Sweden, after all! 

Feeling peckish but don't fancy the trek out to the pier? You'll find a handful of casual kiosks dotted along the seafront, serving everything from ice creams and sandwiches to hot food. They're perfect for a quick bite between swims!

Limhamn

Continue south and you'll reach Limhamn, a former fishing village with a charming old harbour that's especially nice in summer. We sometimes cycle down there for a bite to eat by the water. Enjoy a pizza and Aperol Spritz at Mastio, cool off with an ice cream from Limhamns Glassmejeri, or settle in for fresh fish and shellfish at Limhamns Fiskrökeri. 

And, of course, Limhamn has its own kallbadhus, Sibbarps Kallbadhus. Because this is Sweden, and no stretch of coastline would be complete without a sauna!

I have a real soft spot for this one as it's a little quieter than Ribersborg, with a cosy café selling coffee, cakes, open herring sandwiches and locally made ceramics.

On selected Fridays throughout the summer, they host Sip & Sauna evenings. Surely one of the most Swedish ways imaginable to spend a summer evening: sauna, sea dip, drink, repeat.

The owner, Bea, also runs Ateljén just down the road, a lovely restaurant and ceramics studio that's well worth a visit.

Back into the city for the evening!

After a day of swimming, sailing, sauna-hopping and ice cream stops, it's time for one of my favourite summer pastimes: dinner by the water. Malmö really comes into its own on a warm summer evening, when the sea is calm, it's light until 11pm and a seafood supper feels like the only sensible option.

First stop, La Fonderie. One of Malmö's newer waterfront restaurants, this charming French bistro sits beside an inner harbour waterway with views across to the city beyond. On a warm summer evening, it's the kind of place where you can happily while away a few hours over moules-frites and a crisp glass of wine. Inside, you'll find beautiful artwork by Sara Bergman, whose inspiring home I once featured here.

For spectacular sunset views, head to Grand Italian Brasserie on the top floor of Clarion Malmö Live. Order a cocktail, tuck into Spaghetti Vongole and gaze out over the city, and the coastline beyond. It's one of my favourite spots for watching the sun go down. 

I hope you enjoyed my guide to Malmö by the sea! 

Perhaps I'll see you here this summer? We so look forward to welcoming you if so – and hope you love it here as much as we do! 

Visiting in winter? Here's my guide.

If you've got any questions about anything, please do let me know below and I'll be happy to try to help. 

Niki

Ps I'll be back with a home tour very soon!

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A Travel Guide to Bodø and Lofoten, Northern Norway

Last month, I had the great pleasure of travelling to Bodø and the Lofoten Islands in Northern Norway. to write an article for Simply Scandi magazine. Having been to Norway quite a few times, I knew I was in for a treat, but nothing could quite prepare me for this incredible adventure! My destination was Bodø, this year's European Capital of Culture - and the 'gateway to the Arctic Circle' and Lofoten - the spectacular archipelago a three hour ferry ride away. 

I loved it so much, I thought I'd share my experience here in case you might like to visit this awe-inspiring part of Scandinavia one day. 

Let's kick off with Bodø.

Bodø, Norway

Nestled on the East Coast of Norway, Bodø has a population of 55,000 and is a starting point for people  looking to explore the Arctic Circle.  While the city is often seen a stepping stone, whose who choose to stay for a while and use it as a base to explore the spectacular surroundings will be truly rewarded!  Nestled between the Saltfjellet mountain range and the Norwegian sea to the East, there is plenty of wilderness to explore! 

Best time of year to visit: If you're looking to hike, June to mid September is your best bet since much of the snow has thawed and the meadows glow with wildflowers which sway under the midnight sun. However, if you're after Northern Lights and snowy adventures, October to April is your bag (note that the sun barely rises above the horizon at that time of year, so you'll need to wrap up warm!

How to get there: Bodø has a small domestic airport with one baggage carousel making it quick and easy to navigate. Fly from Trondheim or Oslo - and make sure you book a window seat for incredible views! You can also arrive by train or car (the coastline between Trondheim and Bodø is one of the most spectacular in the world - and somewhere I dream of sailing one day!).

Where to stay: I stayed at the newly opened WOOD hotel (press stay, for which I am truly grateful for!). Just outside the city centre, it's perched high up on Rønvikfjellet with spectacular views over the city, mountains and sea. It also has a dreamy rooftop spa for the ultimate relaxation! 

Bodø city centre

Culture: The first European Capital of Culture north of the Arctic Circle, Bodø has a full calendar of cultural events. Find out more here.  

Shopping: The city is a great place for picking up supplies such as Norwegian outdoor wear and kit (kayaks, mountain bikes etc) as well as local yarn and knitting patterns and some beautiful Scandinavian design. Keep a look out for my article in Simply Scandi magazine this autumn for the complete lowdown. 

Eating out: I am often asked if Norway is expensive - and it can be - but there also budget friendly ways to travel. For example, due to 'the right to roam', you can pitch a tent just about anywhere, and I'd also opt for self-catering accommodation where possible. Having said that, you can't visit Bodø without sampling a coffee and freshly baked cinnamon bun from Berbusmel and tucking into a Møsbrømlefse (local savoury delicacy)!  

Exploring the Bodø Surroundings

The nature around Bodø is simply spectacular, with mountains, white sandy beaches and an archipelago, all marked with trails to enjoy - from easy to advanced.

How to get about: Some trails start from Bodø city centre and / or WOOD Hotel, Others are a short bus or car journey away. We ended up renting a car from the airport since we were quite short on time. Word of warning, in high season the cars get booked up fast, so make sure you reserve one in advance.  

Preparing for hikes

The Bodø tourist office, hotels, tour companies and locals are quick to offer suggestions for amazing hikes in the area. 

I consider myself very fit but a little afraid of heights involving sheer drops (not that this deters me as you'll see from some of the pictures in this post!). We opted for 'easy to moderate' hikes with varying lengths. A word of warning, if a Norwegian tells you a trail will take 2 hours, they are talking 'Norwegian time' and you'll probably need to double it - those guys are fit and used to navigating these trails even in the winter darkness, covered in snow! You've been warned! 

Many of the trails are unmarked so it's always best to download the apps Norgeskart and UTNO. Always take the necessary precautions and pack adequate clothing (the weather can change in seconds), tell someone where you are going and when you expect to be back and take plenty of food and water. If in doubt, sign up for a guided walk. 

The beauty of visiting in June and July is that it never gets dark so you're not in any hurry! 

Having said this, the best thing about the trails around Bodø is that there is something for everyone and you don't need to go far to be rewarded with the most incredible views - often in solitude!

Bodø surrounding

Auvika and Hovdsundet

One of the highlights of my trip was the walk to the look-out point at Hovdsundet. The moderate 3-4 hour trail is 8km long and takes you through farmland, past the secluded chalk-white sand of Auvika beach and along the cliff top. Pack a picnic to enjoy looking out over the turquoise sea while white-tailed eagles sore overhead. Although popular, we only met 4 people the entire day, making it incredibly peaceful.

Mjelle

Around the corner from Hovdsundet you'll find spectacular 'Mjelle', the start of the coastal trail which takes you through the national park. The easy, relatively flat 2.5 km trail takes around 1 hour - although you'll want to stop and swim in the crystal-clear waters on 'red beach'! It's a famous spot for lovers to gaze out over the midnight sun.  

Keiservarden

One of Bodø's most popular hikes, the moderate Keiservarden trail is 5.5 km long and is a 2.5 hour round trip. The uphill hike starts at WOOD hotel, and the trail takes you passed lakes and up mountain steps carved out of stone to the magnificent panoramic vista at the summit. This picture was taken at 10pm! 

The Saltfjället mountains

The mountain range immediately beside Bodø is filled with the most incredible trails! Sadly, we didn't have time to visit, but if you have the time and would like to discover the secluded fells, speak to locals and seek advice on the best hikes for your ability. There are also guides if you are unsure about navigating them yourself. 

The Lofoten Islands 

It's always been a dream of mine to visit Lofoten - an archipelago in the Norwegian Sea, known for its dramatic scenery, snowy peaks, cascading waterfalls and deep blue fjords.

How to get there: Lofoten is located in the Atlantic ocean, West of Bodø. There is a direct car ferry service from Bodø which takes around 4 hours (it gets incredibly booked up in peak season so reserve your place well in advance). There is also a domestic airport on Lofoten. 

How to get around: Lofoten is made up of many islands and stretches 1227 km2 (474 miles square) so it's quite large! You can get around by local bus, or even bike (if you're feeling adventurous!). We took our rental car with us from the mainland so that we could see as much of the archipelago as possible. 

Where to stay: Lofoten Planet was the perfect base as it was near the ferry port and also, some of the most spectacular hikes. The owner, Agata - a climber, was unbelievably knowledgeable and happy to advise us on where to go. We also had access to a kitchen - which was perfect for preparing picnics and evening meals. The other guests were from all over the world, friendly and eager to share their experiences - making it a true home from home! 

Our stay was near the Bakery at Å - famous for serving the best cinnamon buns on Lofoten. 

Nearby Maren Anna, a popular local waterfront restaurant serving fresh seafood overlooking a picturesque inlet - is also not to be missed! 

Henningsvær, Lofoten

Picturesque Henningsvær is one of the main towns in Lofoten. Instagrammers among you will know it for it's incredible viral football pitch - but it's also a popular destination for rock climbing and fishing. It's the perfect place to spend a few days (or have it as your base throughout your stay). Make sure you enjoy a coffee and lunch at the wonderful Klatrekafeen (the climbers cafe) on the waterfront, stroll around the village and shop for local yarn, Norwegian jumpers, ceramics and other design items. You might also like to visit Gallery Lofoten. 

Trails in Lofoten

While our Bodø treks were relatively flat, the hikes we decided to do in Lofoten were a lot more demanding both physically - and mentally! But fortune favours the bold as they say, and anyone who puts in the effort (and like me, goes way out of their comfort zone!), will be rewarded with the most spectacular views - even if your legs are shaking! Here are two wonderful mountain hikes I experienced. 

Tindstegen

This trail starts just behind Planet Base Camp in Sørvågen. A moderate level unmarked trail, you need to allow at least 4 hours, if not more. The hike takes you past incredible waterfalls and a natural reservoir before leading you up the mountain. Although it's relatively easy to navigate, in some parts you will need to use the fixed ropes and chains, and the ridge and peek have quite steep drop offs (eeek!). The view from the top is breath-taking! 

Make sure you pack a 'lefse' (norwegian flatbread with cinnamon) to keep your energy levels up! 

Volandstind

Our second hike was up Volandstind, the pointy pyramid-shaped fell seen above. But before you get started, there's one thing you need to do - and it's a well-kept local secret. There are two bridges beside the mountain. After the second bridge, you'll find the By the Way slow food truck serving the most fresh fish and chips I've ever eaten (and I'm British!). The owner used to be a head chef in a highly acclaimed restaurant before branching off into the 'slow food' industry. It's a perfect way to set yourself up for the hike ahead!

The Volandstind trail is considered easy to moderate. The path is easy to follow, passing a shelter which is equipped with a fire-pit and small library! The climb to the summit turns into rocky terrain and a bit of a scramble before flattening out at the top (despite the sheer drops either side). It's around a 2-3 hour hike and the views from the top look out over the mountains, fjords and beaches below! On the day we went up, 'good weather' sea fog had rolled in, engulfing the fells with a dusting of white! 

Midnight sun kayak

One of the highlights of our trip was a three hour midnight kayak with Saga Adventures. The kayak took us around beautiful Reinefjord, passing fisherman's huts which balance on stilts over the water's edge, sheer mountains which plunge into the fjord and under bridges. Orcas have been known to enter this fjord - much to the delight of locals and tourists alike! 

There are plenty of other adventures to be enjoyed in Lofoten if you have more time. Be sure to check out the Lofoten tourist page for more information. 

I hope this post inspires you to discover this spectacular part of the world one day. If you do, please be sure to share your tips in the comments below! In the meantime, although I am not an expert, but a mere visitor, I'd be happy to answer any questions you might have in the comment section below. 

I might have shaky legs from the summits, but the taste of fresh cod and the vistas over the mountains and deep blue fjords will be something that will remain etched in my memory forever!  

If you'd like to see more of my Scandinavia travel guides, check out this archive (this post will likely pop up first, so just scroll past!), I've also created lots of Scandinavian city guides too!  

Next week we're meeting up with extended family for a one week holiday - I usually take two weeks off the blog in summertime, this year it's been split in two - so, I hope you don't mind that I'll be taking a week off to relax with my family. I'll be back here Monday 12th August. 

Have a fabulous week, I hope the sun will shine for you! 

Niki

All photographs / Niki Brantmark 

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