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A Travel Guide to Bodø and Lofoten, Northern Norway






Last month, I had the great pleasure of travelling to Bodø and the Lofoten Islands in Northern Norway. to write an article for Simply Scandi magazine. Having been to Norway quite a few times, I knew I was in for a treat, but nothing could quite prepare me for this incredible adventure! My destination was Bodø, this year's European Capital of Culture - and the 'gateway to the Arctic Circle' and Lofoten - the spectacular archipelago a three hour ferry ride away. 

I loved it so much, I thought I'd share my experience here in case you might like to visit this awe-inspiring part of Scandinavia one day. 

Let's kick off with Bodø.

Bodø, Norway




Nestled on the East Coast of Norway, Bodø has a population of 55,000 and is a starting point for people  looking to explore the Arctic Circle.  While the city is often seen a stepping stone, whose who choose to stay for a while and use it as a base to explore the spectacular surroundings will be truly rewarded!  Nestled between the Saltfjellet mountain range and the Norwegian sea to the East, there is plenty of wilderness to explore! 

Best time of year to visit: If you're looking to hike, June to mid September is your best bet since much of the snow has thawed and the meadows glow with wildflowers which sway under the midnight sun. However, if you're after Northern Lights and snowy adventures, October to April is your bag (note that the sun barely rises above the horizon at that time of year, so you'll need to wrap up warm!

How to get there: Bodø has a small domestic airport with one baggage carousel making it quick and easy to navigate. Fly from Trondheim or Oslo - and make sure you book a window seat for incredible views! You can also arrive by train or car (the coastline between Trondheim and Bodø is one of the most spectacular in the world - and somewhere I dream of sailing one day!).

Where to stay: I stayed at the newly opened WOOD hotel (press stay, for which I am truly grateful for!). Just outside the city centre, it's perched high up on Rønvikfjellet with spectacular views over the city, mountains and sea. It also has a dreamy rooftop spa for the ultimate relaxation! 







Bodø city centre

Culture: The first European Capital of Culture north of the Arctic Circle, Bodø has a full calendar of cultural events. Find out more here.  

Shopping: The city is a great place for picking up supplies such as Norwegian outdoor wear and kit (kayaks, mountain bikes etc) as well as local yarn and knitting patterns and some beautiful Scandinavian design. Keep a look out for my article in Simply Scandi magazine this autumn for the complete lowdown. 

Eating out: I am often asked if Norway is expensive - and it can be - but there also budget friendly ways to travel. For example, due to 'the right to roam', you can pitch a tent just about anywhere, and I'd also opt for self-catering accommodation where possible. Having said that, you can't visit Bodø without sampling a coffee and freshly baked cinnamon bun from Berbusmel and tucking into a Møsbrømlefse (local savoury delicacy)!  

Exploring the Bodø Surroundings



The nature around Bodø is simply spectacular, with mountains, white sandy beaches and an archipelago, all marked with trails to enjoy - from easy to advanced.

How to get about: Some trails start from Bodø city centre and / or WOOD Hotel, Others are a short bus or car journey away. We ended up renting a car from the airport since we were quite short on time. Word of warning, in high season the cars get booked up fast, so make sure you reserve one in advance.  

Preparing for hikes
The Bodø tourist office, hotels, tour companies and locals are quick to offer suggestions for amazing hikes in the area. 

I consider myself very fit but a little afraid of heights involving sheer drops (not that this deters me as you'll see from some of the pictures in this post!). We opted for 'easy to moderate' hikes with varying lengths. A word of warning, if a Norwegian tells you a trail will take 2 hours, they are talking 'Norwegian time' and you'll probably need to double it - those guys are fit and used to navigating these trails even in the winter darkness, covered in snow! You've been warned! 

Many of the trails are unmarked so it's always best to download the apps Norgeskart and UTNO. Always take the necessary precautions and pack adequate clothing (the weather can change in seconds), tell someone where you are going and when you expect to be back and take plenty of food and water. If in doubt, sign up for a guided walk. 

The beauty of visiting in June and July is that it never gets dark so you're not in any hurry! 

Having said this, the best thing about the trails around Bodø is that there is something for everyone and you don't need to go far to be rewarded with the most incredible views - often in solitude!

Bodø surrounding

Auvika and Hovdsundet

One of the highlights of my trip was the walk to the look-out point at Hovdsundet. The moderate 3-4 hour trail is 8km long and takes you through farmland, past the secluded chalk-white sand of Auvika beach and along the cliff top. Pack a picnic to enjoy looking out over the turquoise sea while white-tailed eagles sore overhead. Although popular, we only met 4 people the entire day, making it incredibly peaceful.


Mjelle


Around the corner from Hovdsundet you'll find spectacular 'Mjelle', the start of the coastal trail which takes you through the national park. The easy, relatively flat 2.5 km trail takes around 1 hour - although you'll want to stop and swim in the crystal-clear waters on 'red beach'! It's a famous spot for lovers to gaze out over the midnight sun.  


Keiservarden

One of Bodø's most popular hikes, the moderate Keiservarden trail is 5.5 km long and is a 2.5 hour round trip. The uphill hike starts at WOOD hotel, and the trail takes you passed lakes and up mountain steps carved out of stone to the magnificent panoramic vista at the summit. This picture was taken at 10pm! 

The Saltfjället mountains
The mountain range immediately beside Bodø is filled with the most incredible trails! Sadly, we didn't have time to visit, but if you have the time and would like to discover the secluded fells, speak to locals and seek advice on the best hikes for your ability. There are also guides if you are unsure about navigating them yourself. 

The Lofoten Islands 

It's always been a dream of mine to visit Lofoten - an archipelago in the Norwegian Sea, known for its dramatic scenery, snowy peaks, cascading waterfalls and deep blue fjords.

How to get there: Lofoten is located in the Atlantic ocean, West of Bodø. There is a direct car ferry service from Bodø which takes around 4 hours (it gets incredibly booked up in peak season so reserve your place well in advance). There is also a domestic airport on Lofoten. 

How to get around: Lofoten is made up of many islands and stretches 1227 km2 (474 miles square) so it's quite large! You can get around by local bus, or even bike (if you're feeling adventurous!). We took our rental car with us from the mainland so that we could see as much of the archipelago as possible. 

Where to stay: Lofoten Planet was the perfect base as it was near the ferry port and also, some of the most spectacular hikes. The owner, Agata - a climber, was unbelievably knowledgeable and happy to advise us on where to go. We also had access to a kitchen - which was perfect for preparing picnics and evening meals. The other guests were from all over the world, friendly and eager to share their experiences - making it a true home from home! 

Our stay was near the Bakery at Å - famous for serving the best cinnamon buns on Lofoten. 


Nearby Maren Anna, a popular local waterfront restaurant serving fresh seafood overlooking a picturesque inlet - is also not to be missed! 

Henningsvær, Lofoten

Picturesque Henningsvær is one of the main towns in Lofoten. Instagrammers among you will know it for it's incredible viral football pitch - but it's also a popular destination for rock climbing and fishing. It's the perfect place to spend a few days (or have it as your base throughout your stay). Make sure you enjoy a coffee and lunch at the wonderful Klatrekafeen (the climbers cafe) on the waterfront, stroll around the village and shop for local yarn, Norwegian jumpers, ceramics and other design items. You might also like to visit Gallery Lofoten. 





Trails in Lofoten
While our Bodø treks were relatively flat, the hikes we decided to do in Lofoten were a lot more demanding both physically - and mentally! But fortune favours the bold as they say, and anyone who puts in the effort (and like me, goes way out of their comfort zone!), will be rewarded with the most spectacular views - even if your legs are shaking! Here are two wonderful mountain hikes I experienced. 

Tindstegen



This trail starts just behind Planet Base Camp in Sørvågen. A moderate level unmarked trail, you need to allow at least 4 hours, if not more. The hike takes you past incredible waterfalls and a natural reservoir before leading you up the mountain. Although it's relatively easy to navigate, in some parts you will need to use the fixed ropes and chains, and the ridge and peek have quite steep drop offs (eeek!). The view from the top is breath-taking! 



Make sure you pack a 'lefse' (norwegian flatbread with cinnamon) to keep your energy levels up! 

Volandstind

Our second hike was up Volandstind, the pointy pyramid-shaped fell seen above. But before you get started, there's one thing you need to do - and it's a well-kept local secret. There are two bridges beside the mountain. After the second bridge, you'll find the By the Way slow food truck serving the most fresh fish and chips I've ever eaten (and I'm British!). The owner used to be a head chef in a highly acclaimed restaurant before branching off into the 'slow food' industry. It's a perfect way to set yourself up for the hike ahead!

The Volandstind trail is considered easy to moderate. The path is easy to follow, passing a shelter which is equipped with a fire-pit and small library! The climb to the summit turns into rocky terrain and a bit of a scramble before flattening out at the top (despite the sheer drops either side). It's around a 2-3 hour hike and the views from the top look out over the mountains, fjords and beaches below! On the day we went up, 'good weather' sea fog had rolled in, engulfing the fells with a dusting of white! 



Midnight sun kayak


One of the highlights of our trip was a three hour midnight kayak with Saga Adventures. The kayak took us around beautiful Reinefjord, passing fisherman's huts which balance on stilts over the water's edge, sheer mountains which plunge into the fjord and under bridges. Orcas have been known to enter this fjord - much to the delight of locals and tourists alike! 


There are plenty of other adventures to be enjoyed in Lofoten if you have more time. Be sure to check out the Lofoten tourist page for more information. 

I hope this post inspires you to discover this spectacular part of the world one day. If you do, please be sure to share your tips in the comments below! In the meantime, although I am not an expert, but a mere visitor, I'd be happy to answer any questions you might have in the comment section below. 

I might have shaky legs from the summits, but the taste of fresh cod and the vistas over the mountains and deep blue fjords will be something that will remain etched in my memory forever!  

If you'd like to see more of my Scandinavia travel guides, check out this archive (this post will likely pop up first, so just scroll past!), I've also created lots of Scandinavian city guides too!  

Next week we're meeting up with extended family for a one week holiday - I usually take two weeks off the blog in summertime, this year it's been split in two - so, I hope you don't mind that I'll be taking a week off to relax with my family. I'll be back here Monday 12th August. 

Have a fabulous week, I hope the sun will shine for you! 

Niki

All photographs / Niki Brantmark 

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3 Swedish Airbnbs That Bring You Close To Nature

Many people flock to Sweden in summertime. Some are looking for a city break, while many others come for the beautiful nature. It makes sense. Sweden has a population of 10 million and a land mass stretching 1572 km from North to South, which makes it easy to find a secluded spot. It's one of the things I love most about living here. 

If you're thinking of visiting, here are three very different Airbnbs which will immerse you in nature so you can switch off, relax, take a dip and generally recharge your batteries, Swedish style! 

Live an indoor-outdoor lifestyle at this cabin in Southwest Sweden, and wake up to the sound of bird song while looking out over the fields of Halmstad. 



You'll feel like you're living in a treehouse in this cabin in Gnesta. And it's just a short hop to a bathing spot too so you get the best of both worlds. Sign me up! 

This unique stay in Bengtsförs invites you to cut loose - literally, and tow your floating home wherever the mood takes you. I love the idea of  waking up to different scenery every morning! The house has a fully equipped kitchen and bathroom and sleeps four. 



All wonderful in their own way. Which would you choose? 

I have a hard time deciding, I must say, but since we have a sailing boat already - I might just be inclined to go for the forest cabin! 

Incidentally, I saw a question about screens and insects on the My Scandinavian Home facebook this week, and some of you might very well be wondering about this when you see these places! In my experience, it's quite rare to get mosquitoes and other pesky creepy crawlies south of Stockholm - although they can be a bit of a nuisance around sunset in the height of summer. That's why you'll rarely see screen doors and windows in these properties. However there can be quite a few mozzies in the North, where they are attracted by the many lakes. So, if you're visiting that part of Sweden you might need plenty of good repellent - depending on the year. 

Do you have a lot of bugs where you are? 

If you're planning a trip and would like to see more Scandinavian airbnbs, check out my holiday rental / airbnb archive - there are so many good ones in there! I have also written quite a few Scandinavian travel and city guides

Happy Wednesday!

Niki

PS I had promised to share a small Copenhagen home belonging to a single mother and her son, but unfortunately I've had to move the post to April. I apologise for this, but I promise it'll be worth the wait! 

Photography courtesy of Airbnb, with thanks. 

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An Eco Retreat Stay in the Forests of Sweden

Dreaming of an escape today? Allow me to whisk you away to depths of the Swedish forests, and this fairytale getaway! Nestled by a lake in the southern Sweden wilderness, Urnatur, meaning 'primeval nature' is the brainchild of forester Håkan Strotz and forest biologist and edible plants expert Ulrika Krynitz. The pair are passionate about ethnobiology and the interaction between man and nature and wanted others to experience an eco-retreat where you can get away from it all and go back-to-basics. 

Made up of an off-the-grid treehouse and a series of cabins built by Håkan and decorated by Ulrika, Urnatur invites guests to stay on Sjögetorp and Renemo farms and make the most of everything the surrounding nature has to offer. Sleep in the trees or snuggle up in a cosy log cabin before taking to the lake in a kayak, foraging for berries and other delicacies or cooking supper over an open fire. You might also want to explore the farm shop for lovely local wares too! 

It does look wonderful, I have to say - and a far cry from my studio in Malmö where I am tapping away at my laptop today. 

Could you imagine spending a week or two here come summertime? If so, visit the Urnatur website for more information. 

Thinking of visiting Sweden and looking for more places to stay? Check out the holiday homes, rentals, airbnb and design hotel archives to find somewhere wonderful! You might also like to delve into my Scandinavian travel and city guide archives to plan your trip in full! Välkommen!  

Speaking of escapes, Per and I finished the summer cottage master bedroom renovation this weekend and I took my camera with me to take a few shots! We are so thrilled with the outcome - even more so since we carried out all the work ourselves. I can't wait to share the results with you on Wednesday. I hope you'll like it as much as we do. See you then! 

Niki

Photography courtesy of Urnatur, with thanks.

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