Four Day Travel Guide: Helsingborg, Helsingør and Kullaberg

In paid collaboration with Visit Helsingborg. Thank you to Visit Helsingborg for making this trip possible. All words and pictures are my own and I genuinely love this part of the world so it was a pleasure to produce this guide! 

Helsingborg, what a great Swedish city! I received so much positive feedback from my Helsingborg city guide last summer, I thought I'd create a follow-up to include some of the beautiful surroundings. 

I am a big fan of the area as my husband is from Helsingborg. I've also had the opportunity to spend plenty of time in the surrounding area since Per's father and stepmother live in a charming fishing village in Kullaberg - a peninsula and nature reserve jutting out into the Kattegat Sea, north of the city. I have to say, the region is a firm favourite of mine. If you love art, farm shops, vineyards, spectacular coastlines and great food, you're bound to fall in love too! 

I've also extended my guide to include a day trip to the picturesque Danish town of Helsingør - a short 20-minute ferry ride over the Öresund strait. Helsingør is home to the UNESCO heritage site Kronborg castle - the home of Hamlet and a perfect place to wander the cobble streets in search Danish antiques, second hand clothes and experience a buzzing restaurant and cafe scene. Ready to feel inspired? Here's my four-day guide to the area. 

Getting there: the southern Sweden city of Helsingborg is easily accessible by train from Copenhagen airport, Malmö and Stockholm. You can also arrive by ferry from Helsingør Denmark. 

Day one - Helsingborg

Check-in at Elite Hotel Mollberg

Occupying a historic 14th century building on Stortorget a short walk from the train station, Elite Hotel Mollberg's couldn't be better located. Plus the impeccably decorated restaurant / breakfast area and the beautiful high ceilings and period features will send your design heart into a flutter! 

I also love small boutique V Hotel - and Clarion Hotel Sea U is a popular choice with its rooftop pool. 

Explore Helsingborg 

There is so much to do in this wonderful city. See my guide to 48 hours in Helsingborg last summer for all my favourite sites, design shops, cafes and restaurants! 

You might like to pay a visit during the forthcoming H22 City Expo (30th May - 3rd July 2022) which promises a full schedule of exciting cultural events, guided tours, music and entertainment and gastronomical experiences for all ages!

Kärnen

Something I missed in my previous guide but well worth a visit is Kärnen. Located in the centre of town by Stortorget, the medieval tower is the last remaining section of a larger fortress built by the Danes. It controlled the entranceway between the Kattegat and Øresundsbron sea along with Kronborg castle in Helsingør. Standing 35 metres high, a spiral staircase will lead you to the top, from where you can enjoy spectacular views - and get your breath back!

Sofiero

A cycle or bus ride from Helsinborg will take you to the magnificent Sofiero castle and grounds which bursts into life in springtime. My family and I often visit for a stroll around the gardens, to nip into the nursery shop, see the latest exhibition and enjoy lunch at the Orangeriet. I've even been to a few open-air concerts here - keep an eye on the events calendar for details! 

Recover from your day by treating yourself to a culinary experience at Chateau Foret (listed in the White Guide), or head to the water's edge and tuck into seafood at one of my favourite restaurants: Sillen & Makrillen. 

Day Two - Helsingør, Denmark

Hop on a ForSea battery-operated ferry to Helsingør - the picturesque Danish town on the opposite side of the strait. There are about four boats and hour and the 20-minute, 4-kilometre crossing will take you straight to the town centre. 

Per explained that some Swedes never get off the boat - choosing to go back and forward across the sound while enjoying the lively ferry bar (I saw it in full swing later on in the day - he wasn't kidding)!

Kronborg Castle, Helsingør

You can't visit Helsingør and not go to Kronborg castle! Known as Elsinore in William Shakespeare's play Hamlet, Kronborg is a 15th century renaissance castle and a designated UNESCO world heritage site. Keep an eye on the official website for guided tours, treasure hunts and open-air plays. 

Stroll the streets 

An easy day trip from Copenhagen (and an even easier one from Helsingborg!), Helsingør is incredibly picturesque. Take good walking shoes as you'll want to take your time to wander the pretty cobblestone streets and small courtyards while popping in and out of boutique stores! 

Antique and second-hand stores

The bustling town is full of small antique, vintage and second-hand stores selling unique Danish treasures. I particularly loved Bror & Søster, situated down a small side lane off the main shopping drag. 

Another favourite is the tiny Louies Brocante which spills out onto the cobbled backstreet.

Keep a look out for the Saturday flea markets on Svingelport (0.00 - 15.00). Arrive early for the best bargains and enjoy live music, a great coffee and a Danish pastry at Lagoni. 

A word of warning, many shops close as early as 14.00 - 15.00 on Saturdays so go early to make the most of your trip! 

There are many great places for lunch - including seafood restaurant Jellyfish. As a Helsinborg guy, Per insisted we paid a nostalgic visit to the main square - along with throngs of other Swedes - to tuck into a traditional Danish smørrebød (open sandwich) accompanied by a Carlsberg (of course) and a customary shot of snaps! The square had such a wonderful, lively atmosphere (it could have had something to do with the snaps!) - we could have stayed all day! 

But our ferry was waiting, and it was time to head back to Helsinborg to continue with the tour! 

Day Three - Höganäs and Mölle

A 40-minute ride on the 220 bus will take you from Helsingborg to the small coastal town of Höganäs, in Kullaberg. 

Salthallerna, Höganäs

I always start my visit to Höganäs at Salthallerna. The former industrial site is home to a great homeware and clothing boutique as well as a host of art exhibitions. You might want to stay for a while as it also has a great cafe selling divine tasting kanelbulla (cinnamon buns). Keep a look out for a new restaurant and BadAss Ceramics opening soon! 

Saltglaserat ceramics 

Next door, you'll find the famous Höganäs Saltglaserat workshop and store where you can watch the potters in action and pick up beautiful ceramics to take home.

Garage Bar & Höganäs Bryggeri

Around the corner you'll find Garage Bar - famed for it's 'nothing less than junk food royal' slogan - needless to say our kids love it! And Höganäs Bryggeri where you can sample locally produced brews (a favourite of Per's!). 

Keep an eye on the events calendar for Blå Hallen - a short walk away. It hosts some amazing flea markets in the summer! 

Kvikbadet

Feeling like you need to re-energise? Book a slot at the wonderful Kvickbadhuset sauna by the harbour. We often go as an extended family on big holidays such as Christmas and Easter, it's a wonderful way to cleanse the mind, body and soul!

Bike tour from Höganäs to Mölle

If you're feeling energetic, hire a bike in Höganäs harbour and follow the Kategattleden to Mölle. It's hard to say how long it takes as I kept stopping to take pictures and enjoy the view - but it's around 10 km and an easy ride - very flat! 

The bike trail follows a disused, converted railway line which takes you along the coast, passing farmland, forests and small, pretty fishing villages, including Nyhamnsläge and Lerhamn. 

Krapperup Castle

Don't miss signs to Krapperup castle (as a Brit it took me a while to get over the name!) along the way (for those who opted for the 222 bus instead - there's a bus stop right outside!). The grounds of the 16th century castle are beautiful - especially when the rhodendrums are in full bloom. You'll also love the cosy cafe, art gallery and boutique. 

Mölle

Continue your cycle ride through the nature reserve until you come to the picturesque 19th century fishing village of Mölle (bus number 222 will also take you from Höganäs to Mölle) and then rest your weary legs quench your thirst at one of the many Harbourside cafes and restaurants. 

Check in to Grand Hotel Mölle

Follow in the footsteps of smart, early 20th century holiday makers, who flocked to Mölle by train to enjoy a rejuvenating stint at this 'badhotell' (bath hotel), today known as Grand hotel Mölle. Per and I stayed in the turret which had wonderful views over Mölle!

Mölle Krukmakeri

You can't visit this village without popping into Mölle Krukmakeri - a ceramics atelier and popular boho hangout, serving great pizza! I have several of their bowls at home too. 

Hike to Kullens Lighthouse

Depending on how you arrived in Mölle, you might be feeling energetic enough to hike along the coast Northwards to Kullens Lighthouse - climbing over granite rocks dotted with pink thrift, and through incredible ancient beech forests as you go . Take your swimmers - there are plenty of bathing places along the way! If you're short on time but still want to take in the views from the tip of the peninsular, there's also a parking spot 300 metres away. 

Cocktails and supper at Ransvik Havsvaranda 

On the way back from the lighthouse, you'll pass Ransvik Havsvaranda - an absolutely wonderful restaurant nestled in the cliff overlooking the sea. On summer evenings it comes alive with locals enjoying cocktails and dinner out on the terrace. 

Day Four - Arild - and the Kullaberg countryside

I've packed in a LOT activities on day three - so you might want to take your foot of the peddle and save some of the areas around Mölle for the fourth day. In summertime there are lots of extra activities available such as s whale and propose boat safari in the Kullaberg nature reserve. There are also many wonderful trails to explore by foot or mountain bike! 

On your way back to Helsingborg, take a short detour to the pretty fishing village of Arild, stopping off at Flickorna Lundgren for a traditional fika (coffee and cake).

Another favourite stop is the restaurant and farm shop Trädgården På Skäret - I'm told their oyster and champagne lunch in summertime is not to be missed! It looks like I'll need to return to the area soon! 

I hope you'll find this guide useful, and it might inspire you to come and explore this wonderful part of the world! 

If you'd like to visit Helsingborg soon, why not come during the H22 City Expo between 30th may - 3 July 2022. The 30-day event promises captivating, exhilarating and innovative cultural attractions, exhibitions, talks, music and entertainment for all ages and gastronomical experiences. Find out more about the H22 City Expo and plan your visit. 

Please do feel free to add your own tips from the area below - there are so many amazing places to visit that I'd need to write an entire tome to cover them all! 

Wishing you a great weekend!

Niki

Photography: copyright - Niki Brantmark / My Scandinavian Home

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Our Stay at Vår Gård Saltsjöbaden in the Stockholm Archipelago

Sponsored by Vår Gård Saltsjöbaden

Is it me or do the first few months of the year always feel a little intense? Take last week, for example: work, food shopping, children's activities, a car that needed fixing, by the time Friday arrived I was completely dishevelled! And then I remembered Per and I had a weekend trip planned. it couldn't have come at a better time! As our train pulled out of Malmö and raced through the Swedish countryside, my pulse lowered with every lake, forest and river we passed. So much so, that by the time we stepped off the train at Vår Gård Saltsjöbaden in the Stockholm archipelago with the sea and islands stretched out before us, all the stress of the week completely fell away.  I couldn't think of a more peaceful place to varva ner (unwind). Here are a few snapshots from our weekend, in the hope that it might inspire you to travel to this wonderful part of the world too! 

Located directly on the shore of the Baltic, 30 to 40 minutes train ride from Stockholm City centre, Vår Gård was built in 1924 and is well known as a conference hotel (evidence of which lies in the modern accommodation block). In recent years, however, the hotel has re-invented itself as a wonderful design hotel, attracting couples and families alike, who are looking to escape the hustle and bustle of the capital, and relax surrounded by nature, art and design, board games and books - as well as great food and wine!  

The slumber! 

I was happy to discover Vår Gård offers rooms for every budget - from single and twin rooms to magnificent waterfront suites - with the same attention to 'design' detail no matter which you choose. It's also a very down-to-earth environment where everyone is made to feel welcome. 

Keen to explore the design, on the first night we checked into a junior suite with nature-inspired wallpaper, cosy wood finishes, Serge Mouilles lamps and the softest Himla bedding. I was happy to find several design books on the shelf - which I read while half watching the Winter Olympics with Per (we're so sociable aren't we - te he he!). Needless to say, we felt instantly at home! 

On the second night we excitedly moved into the Suite LOVE (see what they did there with the name?) - one of three waterfront suites (after all it was St Valentine's weekend!). I'd heard so much about this room and couldn't wait to see it in person. 

Despite a library of books and a stack of board games - nothing could distract us from the ever-changing view over the water (not even Sweden's Winter Olympic medal bids!). The seascape was simply breath-taking. 

The suite also had a droolworthy bathroom complete with sage green subway tiles, a heated white herringbone floor and aged brass fixtures. But to me, the showstopper was the bath which I luxuriated in with a cup of tea and a book (after all, you can take a girl out of England, but you can't take England out of the girl, right?).  

Are you a fan of bubble baths too?  

Bada bastu (sauna / dip) 

What would a getaway in Sweden be without a traditional 'bada bastu' (sauna - bathe)? Every room includes a dressing gown and slippers so you can wander down to the sauna in comfort. 

A dip in the frozen sea after a sauna sounds crazy - especially when there's a dusting of snow on the ground, but trust me, nothing makes you feel more relaxed. It's a ritual many Scandinavians swear by, and scientists have proven it to have many health benefits including pain relief, stress busting and improving circulation as well as cardiovascular to name a few. 

Per, among other Swedes gracefully enter the water, remaining completely still for a few moments before exiting. My plunge, on the other hand is somewhat quicker! Blink and you'll miss it. I like to blame it on my lack of Viking genes, but a lady at our local Malmö sauna told me the other day that it's a skill you develop over time. She has reached the point where she can swim out to a buoy 10 metres way in 2 degrees Celsius (35.5 degrees Fahrenheit) temperatures. I kid you not! 

Food for thought

Feeling more relaxed than ever after our bada bastu - and a lovely walk, we headed to the restaurant for supper. I have to say, Vår Gård has pulled out all the stops on the gourmet experience and offers several mouth-watering packages including everything from lunch and a 'casual tea' to a '24-hour taste experience'. For the more laidback, there's also the option to grill your own sausages over a fire on the shore. Love that!

The main dining area overlooks the water, and when we strolled in, the candlelit room and soft babble of voices and laughter felt like a big warm hug. We tucked into fresh oysters, scallops with poached eggs and winter truffle, Cod with caviar and flower cress and chocolate mousse with raspberry and elderflower. The staff were unbelievably friendly, buoyed by the newly lifted restrictions. Their joy that Vår Gård was thriving once again was palpable throughout our stay! 

The Northern Lights

On our way back to our room we were rewarded by the magnificent sight of the Northern Lights. It was a first for us, living in the south - and although faint, the unmistakable shaft of green light that pierced the darkness was simply magical. Apparently a very rare sighting - which we owed to the crystal-clear night sky. 

The in-house bakery 

Imagine my delight when I discovered the Vår Gård bakery is well known in the area for its sourdough bread, croissants, cinnamon buns and other delicacies (I do have such a sweet tooth after all, how about you?). 

Locals flock here for the 'casual afternoon tea' (a relaxed take on English high tea) - before picking up a loaf of sourdough bread or cinnamon buns to take home. If you're a fan of patisserie, you'll also love the homemade pastries (I can highly recommend the truffles!). 

An in-house bakery also lends itself to a great breakfast. And in my mind, there's nothing better than waking up to warm bread straight from the oven and a perfectly brewed coffee. Such a luxury compared to the morning mayhem back home! 

I might just have tucked into sausages, eggs and bacon - as well as smoked salmon. Although I noticed others managed to refrain themselves and indulge in more healthy fare including fruit and chia seeds with a shot of detoxing cucumber and spinach (perhaps they were booked into the 'dance and workout weekend'), I wasn't quite sure! 

We eked out the final moments of our stay relaxing in the communal area, surrounded by design pieces as well as paintings and sculptures - and stacks of newspapers and magazines. All in all, a perfect end to a magical weekend. 

We were sad to step back on the train, but also excited to see our girls - energy restored!

I hope this post has inspired you to visit the Stockholm archipelagos one day, and if you do, I can highly recommend Vår Gård Saltsjöbaden - either for a longer stay, or simply tapped on to the end of a Stockholm City break so you can koppla av (unwind) before you return home. 

Best of all? You might be visiting sooner than you think as I'm holding an instagram give-away to win a one-night stay in Suite LOVE with a three-course dinner and breakfast for two (travel not included) right now. Hop on over to enter! 

A big tack så mycket (thank you very much) to Vår Gård Hotel for a wonderful stay! We'll be back! 

Niki

Photography: Per & Niki Brantmark 

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