Malmö by the Sea: My Local Guide to Sweden's Coastal City

In paid partnership with Malmö Town /  all words and pictures are my own.

Hej där vänner! As many of you know, I've lived in Malmö for over 22 years (where did the time go?), and summer has always been my favourite season. As soon as the sun comes out, the coastline comes alive. People flock to the beaches, cool off in the sea, play volleyball, linger over drinks by the water, and gather to watch those long, beautiful sunsets.

For me, life by the sea is one of Malmö's greatest joys. From morning dips and saunas to beach cafés, sunset spots and waterside restaurants, here are some of my favourite ways to enjoy summer on Malmö's coast, in case you fancy coming for a visit!

City centre and Dockan

One of the best things about Malmö is that you're never far from the water. On a sunny day, grab a pedal boat or hire a small motorboat from Book a Boat and set off to explore the city's canals and waterways. Don't forget to pack a picnic, and then cruise past waterside cafés, leafy parks, and enjoy seeing Malmö from a whole new angle. It's one of my favourite summer activities in the city.

City centre and Dockan

Feeling peckish? Grab fish and chips and a chilled glass of rosé by the harbour at Fisky Business or settle in at Cantin for tasty street food and summer vibes by the water.

Västra Hamnen

Västra Hamnen is my neck of the woods, and I feel really lucky as I think it's one of the best places to spend a summer's day in Malmö. Once an industrial shipyard, it's now home to Turning Torso designed by the world famous architect Santiago Calatrava, and a vibrant waterfront neighbourhood where locals and visitors alike come to swim, sunbathe, stroll along the boardwalk and enjoy life by the sea.

It's a great place to take a dip from one of the many bathing decks, settle in with a picnic, or simply sit back and watch the boats glide by, with famous Öresund bridge and the city of Copenhagen visible in the distance. 

There's always something happening in Västra Hamnen, from sunset salsa dancing to live bands by the sea. This week, a pop-up sauna rolled in, and Tobias treated guests to a sauna and cold-water dip as well as other rituals. It's one of the many reasons I love calling this neighbourhood home.

Make sure you take a wander around the neighbourhood and soak up the architecture. Much of Västra Hamnen was built as part of the Bo01 housing exhibition in 2001, a pioneering project that put sustainable living on the map and transformed the old shipyard into the vibrant waterfront district we know today. I never tire of strolling these streets, there's always a new detail to spot.

Once you've worked up an appetite, you're spoiled for choice. On a sunny day, grab a table at Beach Garden for laid-back seaside vibes, or book a spot at Kontrast (my pick for the best Indian food in town!), or next door, slurp your way through a bowl of ramen or tuck into sushi.

Ribbersborg

Just a few minutes' walk away is Ribersborg beach. With its long stretch of sand and shallow waters, it's especially popular with families. In fact, I spent many happy summer days here when my children were small, building sandcastles, paddling in the sea and enjoying picnics by the shore.

These days, the coastline buzzes with activity all summer long, from beach volleyball and basketball to yoga sessions by the sea. It's a wonderful place to soak up Malmö's laid-back summer atmosphere."

There are countless ways to enjoy the sea here. We love to sail, but if you're just in town for the weekend, you can try everything from wakeboarding and paddle boarding at Malmö Wake Park. Many of the kayaks can be rented through an app, making it easy to head out for an adventure at a moment's notice. The lack of tides makes the water feel a little less intimidating, but always keep an eye on the wind and weather before setting off.

While I've already mentioned saunas, no guide to Malmö's coastline would be complete without Ribersborgs Kallbadhus. Perched at the end of a long pier stretching into the Öresund, this iconic wooden sauna is a true Malmö institution. It's one of the first places my friends and family ask to visit when they come to stay (pictured here are my nieces racing down the pier towards it!), and somewhere I regularly visit with friends too.

The routine is simple: sauna, sea dip, repeat. And don't forget, swimwear stays at home, as bathing is traditionally enjoyed au naturel in separate men's and women's sections. Afterwards, warm up over lunch or a coffee at the café at the end of the pier. Perfect if the weather gods aren't quite cooperating, it is Sweden, after all! 

Feeling peckish but don't fancy the trek out to the pier? You'll find a handful of casual kiosks dotted along the seafront, serving everything from ice creams and sandwiches to hot food. They're perfect for a quick bite between swims!

Limhamn

Continue south and you'll reach Limhamn, a former fishing village with a charming old harbour that's especially nice in summer. We sometimes cycle down there for a bite to eat by the water. Enjoy a pizza and Aperol Spritz at Mastio, cool off with an ice cream from Limhamns Glassmejeri, or settle in for fresh fish and shellfish at Limhamns Fiskrökeri. 

And, of course, Limhamn has its own kallbadhus, Sibbarps Kallbadhus. Because this is Sweden, and no stretch of coastline would be complete without a sauna!

I have a real soft spot for this one as it's a little quieter than Ribersborg, with a cosy café selling coffee, cakes, open herring sandwiches and locally made ceramics.

On selected Fridays throughout the summer, they host Sip & Sauna evenings. Surely one of the most Swedish ways imaginable to spend a summer evening: sauna, sea dip, drink, repeat.

The owner, Bea, also runs Ateljén just down the road, a lovely restaurant and ceramics studio that's well worth a visit.

Back into the city for the evening!

After a day of swimming, sailing, sauna-hopping and ice cream stops, it's time for one of my favourite summer pastimes: dinner by the water. Malmö really comes into its own on a warm summer evening, when the sea is calm, it's light until 11pm and a seafood supper feels like the only sensible option.

First stop, La Fonderie. One of Malmö's newer waterfront restaurants, this charming French bistro sits beside an inner harbour waterway with views across to the city beyond. On a warm summer evening, it's the kind of place where you can happily while away a few hours over moules-frites and a crisp glass of wine. Inside, you'll find beautiful artwork by Sara Bergman, whose inspiring home I once featured here.

For spectacular sunset views, head to Grand Italian Brasserie on the top floor of Clarion Malmö Live. Order a cocktail, tuck into Spaghetti Vongole and gaze out over the city, and the coastline beyond. It's one of my favourite spots for watching the sun go down. 

I hope you enjoyed my guide to Malmö by the sea! 

Perhaps I'll see you here this summer? We so look forward to welcoming you if so – and hope you love it here as much as we do! 

Visiting in winter? Here's my guide.

If you've got any questions about anything, please do let me know below and I'll be happy to try to help. 

Niki

Ps I'll be back with a home tour very soon!

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Exploring Hallands Väderö: Sweden’s Wild and Peaceful Island

Sponsored post, all words are my own, and I only ever work with brands I love and think you will too. 

Do you have a favourite island?

That’s the question Skandinavisk asked in celebration of their ØY fragrance – a collection with notes of water mosses, dog rose, crabapple and green leaves, inspired by the solitude and raw beauty of the Nordic islands (keep a lookout for the discount code at the end of this post). 

There’s something magical about the word island, isn't there? It conjures images of wind-blown shores, untouched nature, and life lived at a slower pace. Coming from a sailing family, I’ve been lucky to explore many islands – which isn’t hard when you live in Sweden, the country with more islands than anywhere else in the world (true story!). But my heart always returns to one close to home.

Just a kilometre off the coast of Torekov, where we have our little cabin, lies Hallands Väderö – a 3-square-kilometre, car-free nature reserve where seals lounge on sun-warmed rocks and ancient trees line quiet forest paths. It’s both wild and serene.

Arriving by ferry from Torekov to Sandhamn on a relaxing day trip, you leave behind more than just the mainland—you leave behind the rush of everyday life. Instead, you're greeted by stillness, fresh sea air, and a sense of something timeless.

Let me take you there today!

The ØY hand cream is so lovely and light yet nourishing - I always have it in my bag! It's made with Swedish rapeseed oil – and smells just like a breath of fresh island air. 

Getting there

Hallands Väderö is completely uninhabited, apart from a handful of simple summer cottages tucked among the trees. The only way to reach the island is by boat—and thankfully, a ferry runs from Torekov year-round (see the schedule). When the ferry arrives at Sandhamn, there’s no traffic, no shops – just a few wooden trolleys waiting at the dock. They’re there for the lucky cottage owners to load up with food, clothes, books, and board games – everything needed for slow days and quiet nights, all wheeled through the forest to their front door. The only sign of service is a small, charming café that opens during the summer months – just enough for an ice cream, a coffee, or a slice of something sweet after a swim.

Exploring the island

When our children were little, we’d often spend whole days on the sandy beach in Sandhamn – building forts, collecting shells, and watching the hours drift by. These days, we’ll usually pick one of the many marked trails that weave across the island, each one signposted with different coloured wooden stakes. Our first port of call is often Kappelhamn for a swim.

To reach Kappelhamn, the trail leads through a mix of open meadows where horses roam, and deep, shady forests where moss carpets the ground and the air smells of pine and sea. Keep a look out for the English graveyard – a forgotten resting place for shipwrecked sailors, hidden among the trees and weathered by time. 

Kappelhamn

On the southern side of the island lies Kappelhamn – a favourite spot for boat daytrippers and island bathers. It feels like a tiny archipelago, with its mix of sandy beaches, sun-warmed cliffs, smooth skerries, and a bathing platform. Tucked into the landscape are a handful of off-grid summer cottages – simple and secluded, with sweeping views over the Kattegat. There’s no electricity, just the rhythm of the sea and the quiet luxury of living in tune with nature (rain or shine!). 

  

The ØY Wash (500ml) is ideal for the shower (we have it in our cabin). I love that it's naturally made with Swedish oat fibre and organic aloe vera to soothe and hydrate. One of the scent notes is dog rose, which is found in abundance on Hallands Väderö. 

The clear waters around the island can get surprisingly warm in summer – up to 22°C (that’s 72°F!), which definitely counts as tropical by Swedish standards. Even on chillier days, a quick dip is wonderfully refreshing. I’ll admit, I’m what Swedes affectionately call a badkruka – a “bathing pot” – basically someone who takes forever to get in (and often doesn’t). Per, on the other hand, is a proper Viking and swims year-round without so much as a flinch. So yes, pack your bathers – whether you're a badkruka or a seasoned bather, the sea is always waiting.

The ØY lotion (500 ml) is super nourishing yet sinks in fast – perfect for after a swim. My girls really love it too!

 

To the lighthouse

No visit to the island is complete without a walk to Hallands Väderö Lighthouse. The trail between Kappelhamn and the lighthouse takes you past the old farm – red barns, a few slow-moving cows – a quiet reminder of the island’s farming past. From there, things get a bit more rugged and marshy as you reach the exposed western coast, where the Kattegat winds pick up. Wooden boardwalks and coastal trails lead you out to the lighthouse – a white tower that’s been calmly guiding ships for over a hundred years. You can’t go in, but just getting there is half the experience – big skies, sea air, and that wide-open feeling you only get at the edge of an island. And I’ll admit, the walk feels slightly easier these days without a toddler on our backs.

In spring and early summer, Hallands Väderö quietly bursts into bloom. The meadows and forest edges are scattered with wood anemones, bird’s-foot trefoil, violets, and even the occasional wild orchid. As summer deepens, you’ll find hardy coastal blooms like sea thrift, wild thyme, and yarrow, clinging to the sun-baked cliffs and open fields. It’s a gentle, low-key kind of beauty – nothing too dramatic – but full of life if you stop and take it in. 

Staying the night

Just beside the lighthouse, Fyrplatsen—the island’s original refuge for overnight stays—is perfect for anyone wanting to linger a little longer… or for stragglers who (like us, nearly a few times) miss the 4 pm ferry. Perched out on the wild western tip,the self-catered stay is a pretty exciting place to spend the night, and well worth lugging your clothes, food, and board games all the way out there. Alternatively, Skogvaktaregården also offers overnight accommodation, nestled within the island’s peaceful landscape.

That said, I do love heading back to Torekov and our little cabin at the end of the day – cheeks rosy, candle lit, and a glass of wine in hand. Bliss! 

I hope you’ve enjoyed this little visit to my favourite island. If you can’t get there yourself, the next best thing might just be the ØY Island Solitude collection from Skandinavisk – it’s like the feeling of the island, bottled up in scent! As a little gift from me, you can get 20% off throughout July on all fragrances from Skandinavisk with the code island20. 

I’d love to hear about your favourite island too, please do share in the comments below if you'd like. 

I'll be back on Friday with a very charming tour. See you then! 

Niki

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6

An Eco Retreat Stay in the Forests of Sweden

Dreaming of an escape today? Allow me to whisk you away to depths of the Swedish forests, and this fairytale getaway! Nestled by a lake in the southern Sweden wilderness, Urnatur, meaning 'primeval nature' is the brainchild of forester Håkan Strotz and forest biologist and edible plants expert Ulrika Krynitz. The pair are passionate about ethnobiology and the interaction between man and nature and wanted others to experience an eco-retreat where you can get away from it all and go back-to-basics. 

Made up of an off-the-grid treehouse and a series of cabins built by Håkan and decorated by Ulrika, Urnatur invites guests to stay on Sjögetorp and Renemo farms and make the most of everything the surrounding nature has to offer. Sleep in the trees or snuggle up in a cosy log cabin before taking to the lake in a kayak, foraging for berries and other delicacies or cooking supper over an open fire. You might also want to explore the farm shop for lovely local wares too! 

It does look wonderful, I have to say - and a far cry from my studio in Malmö where I am tapping away at my laptop today. 

Could you imagine spending a week or two here come summertime? If so, visit the Urnatur website for more information. 

Thinking of visiting Sweden and looking for more places to stay? Check out the holiday homes, rentals, airbnb and design hotel archives to find somewhere wonderful! You might also like to delve into my Scandinavian travel and city guide archives to plan your trip in full! Välkommen!  

Speaking of escapes, Per and I finished the summer cottage master bedroom renovation this weekend and I took my camera with me to take a few shots! We are so thrilled with the outcome - even more so since we carried out all the work ourselves. I can't wait to share the results with you on Wednesday. I hope you'll like it as much as we do. See you then! 

Niki

Photography courtesy of Urnatur, with thanks.

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