A Travel Guide to Bodø and Lofoten, Northern Norway






Last month, I had the great pleasure of travelling to Bodø and the Lofoten Islands in Northern Norway. to write an article for Simply Scandi magazine. Having been to Norway quite a few times, I knew I was in for a treat, but nothing could quite prepare me for this incredible adventure! My destination was Bodø, this year's European Capital of Culture - and the 'gateway to the Arctic Circle' and Lofoten - the spectacular archipelago a three hour ferry ride away. 

I loved it so much, I thought I'd share my experience here in case you might like to visit this awe-inspiring part of Scandinavia one day. 

Let's kick off with Bodø.

Bodø, Norway




Nestled on the East Coast of Norway, Bodø has a population of 55,000 and is a starting point for people  looking to explore the Arctic Circle.  While the city is often seen a stepping stone, whose who choose to stay for a while and use it as a base to explore the spectacular surroundings will be truly rewarded!  Nestled between the Saltfjellet mountain range and the Norwegian sea to the East, there is plenty of wilderness to explore! 

Best time of year to visit: If you're looking to hike, June to mid September is your best bet since much of the snow has thawed and the meadows glow with wildflowers which sway under the midnight sun. However, if you're after Northern Lights and snowy adventures, October to April is your bag (note that the sun barely rises above the horizon at that time of year, so you'll need to wrap up warm!

How to get there: Bodø has a small domestic airport with one baggage carousel making it quick and easy to navigate. Fly from Trondheim or Oslo - and make sure you book a window seat for incredible views! You can also arrive by train or car (the coastline between Trondheim and Bodø is one of the most spectacular in the world - and somewhere I dream of sailing one day!).

Where to stay: I stayed at the newly opened WOOD hotel (press stay, for which I am truly grateful for!). Just outside the city centre, it's perched high up on Rønvikfjellet with spectacular views over the city, mountains and sea. It also has a dreamy rooftop spa for the ultimate relaxation! 







Bodø city centre

Culture: The first European Capital of Culture north of the Arctic Circle, Bodø has a full calendar of cultural events. Find out more here.  

Shopping: The city is a great place for picking up supplies such as Norwegian outdoor wear and kit (kayaks, mountain bikes etc) as well as local yarn and knitting patterns and some beautiful Scandinavian design. Keep a look out for my article in Simply Scandi magazine this autumn for the complete lowdown. 

Eating out: I am often asked if Norway is expensive - and it can be - but there also budget friendly ways to travel. For example, due to 'the right to roam', you can pitch a tent just about anywhere, and I'd also opt for self-catering accommodation where possible. Having said that, you can't visit Bodø without sampling a coffee and freshly baked cinnamon bun from Berbusmel and tucking into a Møsbrømlefse (local savoury delicacy)!  

Exploring the Bodø Surroundings



The nature around Bodø is simply spectacular, with mountains, white sandy beaches and an archipelago, all marked with trails to enjoy - from easy to advanced.

How to get about: Some trails start from Bodø city centre and / or WOOD Hotel, Others are a short bus or car journey away. We ended up renting a car from the airport since we were quite short on time. Word of warning, in high season the cars get booked up fast, so make sure you reserve one in advance.  

Preparing for hikes
The Bodø tourist office, hotels, tour companies and locals are quick to offer suggestions for amazing hikes in the area. 

I consider myself very fit but a little afraid of heights involving sheer drops (not that this deters me as you'll see from some of the pictures in this post!). We opted for 'easy to moderate' hikes with varying lengths. A word of warning, if a Norwegian tells you a trail will take 2 hours, they are talking 'Norwegian time' and you'll probably need to double it - those guys are fit and used to navigating these trails even in the winter darkness, covered in snow! You've been warned! 

Many of the trails are unmarked so it's always best to download the apps Norgeskart and UTNO. Always take the necessary precautions and pack adequate clothing (the weather can change in seconds), tell someone where you are going and when you expect to be back and take plenty of food and water. If in doubt, sign up for a guided walk. 

The beauty of visiting in June and July is that it never gets dark so you're not in any hurry! 

Having said this, the best thing about the trails around Bodø is that there is something for everyone and you don't need to go far to be rewarded with the most incredible views - often in solitude!

Bodø surrounding

Auvika and Hovdsundet

One of the highlights of my trip was the walk to the look-out point at Hovdsundet. The moderate 3-4 hour trail is 8km long and takes you through farmland, past the secluded chalk-white sand of Auvika beach and along the cliff top. Pack a picnic to enjoy looking out over the turquoise sea while white-tailed eagles sore overhead. Although popular, we only met 4 people the entire day, making it incredibly peaceful.


Mjelle


Around the corner from Hovdsundet you'll find spectacular 'Mjelle', the start of the coastal trail which takes you through the national park. The easy, relatively flat 2.5 km trail takes around 1 hour - although you'll want to stop and swim in the crystal-clear waters on 'red beach'! It's a famous spot for lovers to gaze out over the midnight sun.  


Keiservarden

One of Bodø's most popular hikes, the moderate Keiservarden trail is 5.5 km long and is a 2.5 hour round trip. The uphill hike starts at WOOD hotel, and the trail takes you passed lakes and up mountain steps carved out of stone to the magnificent panoramic vista at the summit. This picture was taken at 10pm! 

The Saltfjället mountains
The mountain range immediately beside Bodø is filled with the most incredible trails! Sadly, we didn't have time to visit, but if you have the time and would like to discover the secluded fells, speak to locals and seek advice on the best hikes for your ability. There are also guides if you are unsure about navigating them yourself. 

The Lofoten Islands 

It's always been a dream of mine to visit Lofoten - an archipelago in the Norwegian Sea, known for its dramatic scenery, snowy peaks, cascading waterfalls and deep blue fjords.

How to get there: Lofoten is located in the Atlantic ocean, West of Bodø. There is a direct car ferry service from Bodø which takes around 4 hours (it gets incredibly booked up in peak season so reserve your place well in advance). There is also a domestic airport on Lofoten. 

How to get around: Lofoten is made up of many islands and stretches 1227 km2 (474 miles square) so it's quite large! You can get around by local bus, or even bike (if you're feeling adventurous!). We took our rental car with us from the mainland so that we could see as much of the archipelago as possible. 

Where to stay: Lofoten Planet was the perfect base as it was near the ferry port and also, some of the most spectacular hikes. The owner, Agata - a climber, was unbelievably knowledgeable and happy to advise us on where to go. We also had access to a kitchen - which was perfect for preparing picnics and evening meals. The other guests were from all over the world, friendly and eager to share their experiences - making it a true home from home! 

Our stay was near the Bakery at Å - famous for serving the best cinnamon buns on Lofoten. 


Nearby Maren Anna, a popular local waterfront restaurant serving fresh seafood overlooking a picturesque inlet - is also not to be missed! 

Henningsvær, Lofoten

Picturesque Henningsvær is one of the main towns in Lofoten. Instagrammers among you will know it for it's incredible viral football pitch - but it's also a popular destination for rock climbing and fishing. It's the perfect place to spend a few days (or have it as your base throughout your stay). Make sure you enjoy a coffee and lunch at the wonderful Klatrekafeen (the climbers cafe) on the waterfront, stroll around the village and shop for local yarn, Norwegian jumpers, ceramics and other design items. You might also like to visit Gallery Lofoten. 





Trails in Lofoten
While our Bodø treks were relatively flat, the hikes we decided to do in Lofoten were a lot more demanding both physically - and mentally! But fortune favours the bold as they say, and anyone who puts in the effort (and like me, goes way out of their comfort zone!), will be rewarded with the most spectacular views - even if your legs are shaking! Here are two wonderful mountain hikes I experienced. 

Tindstegen



This trail starts just behind Planet Base Camp in Sørvågen. A moderate level unmarked trail, you need to allow at least 4 hours, if not more. The hike takes you past incredible waterfalls and a natural reservoir before leading you up the mountain. Although it's relatively easy to navigate, in some parts you will need to use the fixed ropes and chains, and the ridge and peek have quite steep drop offs (eeek!). The view from the top is breath-taking! 



Make sure you pack a 'lefse' (norwegian flatbread with cinnamon) to keep your energy levels up! 

Volandstind

Our second hike was up Volandstind, the pointy pyramid-shaped fell seen above. But before you get started, there's one thing you need to do - and it's a well-kept local secret. There are two bridges beside the mountain. After the second bridge, you'll find the By the Way slow food truck serving the most fresh fish and chips I've ever eaten (and I'm British!). The owner used to be a head chef in a highly acclaimed restaurant before branching off into the 'slow food' industry. It's a perfect way to set yourself up for the hike ahead!

The Volandstind trail is considered easy to moderate. The path is easy to follow, passing a shelter which is equipped with a fire-pit and small library! The climb to the summit turns into rocky terrain and a bit of a scramble before flattening out at the top (despite the sheer drops either side). It's around a 2-3 hour hike and the views from the top look out over the mountains, fjords and beaches below! On the day we went up, 'good weather' sea fog had rolled in, engulfing the fells with a dusting of white! 



Midnight sun kayak


One of the highlights of our trip was a three hour midnight kayak with Saga Adventures. The kayak took us around beautiful Reinefjord, passing fisherman's huts which balance on stilts over the water's edge, sheer mountains which plunge into the fjord and under bridges. Orcas have been known to enter this fjord - much to the delight of locals and tourists alike! 


There are plenty of other adventures to be enjoyed in Lofoten if you have more time. Be sure to check out the Lofoten tourist page for more information. 

I hope this post inspires you to discover this spectacular part of the world one day. If you do, please be sure to share your tips in the comments below! In the meantime, although I am not an expert, but a mere visitor, I'd be happy to answer any questions you might have in the comment section below. 

I might have shaky legs from the summits, but the taste of fresh cod and the vistas over the mountains and deep blue fjords will be something that will remain etched in my memory forever!  

If you'd like to see more of my Scandinavia travel guides, check out this archive (this post will likely pop up first, so just scroll past!), I've also created lots of Scandinavian city guides too!  

Next week we're meeting up with extended family for a one week holiday - I usually take two weeks off the blog in summertime, this year it's been split in two - so, I hope you don't mind that I'll be taking a week off to relax with my family. I'll be back here Monday 12th August. 

Have a fabulous week, I hope the sun will shine for you! 

Niki

All photographs / Niki Brantmark 

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Discover Malmö, the Host City of the Eurovision Song Contest 2024!

In paid partnership with Malmö Town

'And twelve points go to.... LOREEN'. Back in May, the Swedish singer and songwriter won the Eurovision Song Contest in front of162 million viewers worldwide. For Sweden this was huge, firstly because it was Loreen's second win, and secondly because I simply cannot express just how big the Eurovision Song Contest is here! Traditionally, the country who wins the contest gets to host the event the following year. And next spring all eyes will be on Malmö, the city chosen to host the Eurovision Song Contest 2024! 

Having moved to Malmö in 2004 - I certainly know a thing or two about this wonderful city and today, I'm going to put the singing aside (except for a little karaoke of course), to share some of my favourite places in Malmö with you, including cafes, restaurants, shops, sculptures, architect, museums and galleries!

Ready to discover this Southern city a short hop from Copenhagen? Step this way for my local guide! 


Stroll through the old cobbled streets and squares of Gamla Staden

Wander through Gamla Staden (the old town) which includes Stortorget - the 'big square' with its majestic buildings and beautifully restored advertising from 1900 and Lillatorg - the picturesque 'small square' buzzing with cafes and restaurants. Take some time strolling around the cobbled residential lanes behind the main sites too,  there are rows of colourful cottages to discover! 

Keep an eye out for the city's architecture, fountains and sculptures

Malmö is well known for Turning Torso - a skyscraper designed by Santiago Calatrava, and of course the magnificent Öresund bridge which spans the Öresund Strait. But make sure you keep your eyes peeled around the city for an incredible array of architecture where old meets new. For a great architectue walk, start at Fiskehoddarna and make your way along Citadellsvägen beside the canal passing Malmöhus slott (the castle), Clarion live and many other exciting landmarks. 

Throughout Gamla Staden and beyond you'll find many incredible fountains, sculptures and artwork. My favourite is 'Det Svenska Tungsinnet' by Marie-Louise Ekman - a crying man in bronze who is always sad despite the wonderful views over the canal! 

Visit the museums and galleries 

Malmö has a thriving art and design scene thanks to Moderna Museet (in a former power station), Konsthallen and Malmö konstmuseum as well as smaller galleries and museums dotted around town - all within an easy walk! You might also be lucky enough to time your visit with the Southern Sweden Design Days or Gallery Open Night! 

Stop for a fika (coffee and sweet treat)

No matter where you are in town, there will be a cafe with first class coffee and a fluffy cinnamon bun waiting for you! In the city centre you'll find the likes of Noir, Solde and Konditori Katarina near the station. But I also love to heading to St Knuts torg where you can pull up a seat beside locals in Uggla kaffebar (above) or Söderberg & Sara (below). 

You also can't get more local than Östra Kaffebaren in Värnhem (pictured below), why not make a morning of it and stroll through lovely Kungsgatan - passing Saint Paul's Church on the way. 

If you're in Limhamn (not far from Hyllie - the site of the Eurovision Song Contest 2024), head to Atelejen for a fika or brunch (below) - and pick up some ceramics made in the in-house workshop afterwards. 

The good news is, when it comes to Swedish fika, there are no limits to the number of times you can indulge yourself in one day - so, why not try out all of these places during your stay?


Shopping for clothes

Malmö town centre is filled with the usual Swedish high street stores including H&M, & Other stories, Lindex, Tiger of Sweden, Åhlens etc. But if like me, you love to discover smaller independent stores, make sure you stop by at Meloa (pictured above) on Davidshallstorg, Miloii, Grandpa and AB Småland. You can also pick up second-hand finds at Rad Susie and Björk & Frihet.

For great outdoor gear head to NaturkompanietPeak Performance, or Stadium

Shopping for design


Malmö has so many great design stores! Nordiska Galleriet (above) recently opened it's doors and is filled with Scandinavian design. 

Tucked away on a lovely old street in Gamla Staden you'll also find the independent interior design store Pepperholm (below) - which focuses on Giclée prints on paper and linen tapestries printed in Sweden as well as well as lamps, ceramics, cushions and other small items for the home (limited opening hours).

Other design stores I love include Norrgavel, Svenssons, Miloii, Bolia, Geijersgatan 53 as well as chains Lagerhaus and Granit

Shopping for antique and second-hand homeware

Tucked away behind Davidshallstorg, you'll find a whole host of small independent boutiques selling everything from antiques like Teddy's Antikshop (pictured above and below) and books to mid-century furniture and ceramics. Most have limited opening times but nearly all are open on Saturdays. 


While on the subject of books, seek out the 'Dawit Isaac Biblioteket - the library of banned books, it's fascinating! 

Restaurants for lunch and dinner

There are so many excellent restaurants in Malmö. I'll start with lunch spots! Davidshallstorg - a square in the town centre is teeming with little restaurants all with the option of indoor or outdoor seating. I particularly like Freja Cafe och Vinbar (above and below) which is open all day and serves an excellent breakfast, fika, lunch or evening meal. Other great brunch and lunch options include Ruths (excellent food, great atmosphere), MJs restaurant and the relaxed food hall Malmö Saluhall. On a Friday, book a table for lunch at popular Västra Station.  

Looking for something more hipster? Head to Möllevången. 

Known for its bohemian, edgy and hip vibe, Möllevången is packed with restaurants serving everything from Indian and Lebanese to Chinese and Iranian. Last Sunday Per and I spent the afternoon in the afternoon sunshine at Ramen to Biiru - a popular Japanese restaurant which is always packed with locals for good reason - the food is excellent! 

Nearby you'll find Scandwich, another favourite! You can't make reservations at either of these places so just rock up and enjoy the atmosphere while you wait for your table! 

In the evening, my favourite dinner places are Bouchon, Occo (I love the decadence of this place and the delicious mezze, plus its great for cocktails), Aster, Elsa, Atmosfär, Gustavino or Bise.  For great Asian food head to Quan (hugely popular for good reason - book well in advance) Soho or Kin Lon, a chinese restaurant with robot service! In my mind, the best Indian in town is served at Kontrast, Ghee by the Sea overlooking the sea and Öresund bridge - it's a Brantmark family favourite! 

Food shopping


Is self-catering an option during your stay? If so, you're in luck! There are many supermarkets all over town, but if you'd like to shop local, head to the farmers markets at Drottningstorget or pick up fruit and veg at the market at Möllevångenstorget (most stalls prefer cash). Möllevången is also a great place to experience Malmö's incredible cultural diversity - and you can buy ingredients for just about any dish! 

For other independent stores, Gram on St Knuts torg (pictured above) is a zero waste shop selling local, organic and sustainable products. You can also buy local eggs and freshly baked sourdough next door at Söderberg & Sara. While in the neighbourhood, take a stroll in Malmö Folkets Park - it offers an entire calendar of events as well as a host of cafes and restaurants and even a reptile centre!

Seafood on the menu? Pick up shellfish, salmon, herring, tuna steaks and many other delicacies from Malmö's largest fish market Fiskehoddarna - a picturesque row of fishing huts by the canal (seen above and below) a stone's throw from Malmöhus slott. I love to stop by for the catch of the day from Blå Hoddan, owned by the brother of a friend of mine who has is own fishing boat. In late spring and summer you can dine-in. 

Looking for some activities? 
By day, take a stroll in one of the city parks - including Pildammsparken, which dates back to the 17th century or Kungsparken, with its canal, windmill and pretty gardens - both beautiful! When friends and family come to visit I also love to rent one of the electric boats from Go Boat or BookABoat and putter around the city canals with a picnic (pick up a baguette at Picnic). 


Feeling sporty? Soak up the amazing atmosphere at a Malmö FF game (locals will tell you they are the best soccer / football team in Sweden!) or learn about ice-hockey by watching Malmö Redhawks play! 


If the sun is shining and the weather is warm, you'll find lots of action at the city beach at Ribbergsborgstranden where, in summer time you can play volleyball and basketball. In the winter, warm up at Ribersgborg kalbadhus (public sauna and pier). I was there yesterday and always leave feeling completely revived! 

For evening activities - Boulebar is always fun for dinner and boules, or get into the Eurovision spirit at the new karaoke bar Moyagi! The art deco style Spegeln is my favourite cinema thanks to the beautiful decor, comfy armchairs and in-saloon bar! For something that little extra you might like to see a performance at Malmö Opera or Malmö Stadsteater or put your problem-solving skills to the test at Sherlocked escape room, before recovering in the cocktail bar. 

Finish the night with a dance to live music on at Paddy's (Friday's and Saturdays) or bust a move among the young and hip at Plan B

Where to stay
MJs, Clarion and Story are all in the heart of town and offer a great night's stay. 

Finally
don't leave Malmö without picking up some chocolate from Malmö Chokladfabrik (the Malmö chocolate factory) store near the central station for some ecological dream chocolate with that little extra! 

Planning your trip? Here are five useful things to know...

1. Malmö is a near cashless city so don't exchange money in advance - credit cards are the way to go (except you would like to visit the market in Möllevången). 
2. Get around on foot or hire a bike. For longer journeys download the easy-to-use Skånetrafiken app for public transport (including the train to and from Copenhagen airport). 
3. Dress for all weather but leave your brolly at home - this is a windy city! Oh, and bring your bathers - just in case you fancy a dip in the Öresund Strait! 
4. Malmö is an understated city - relaxed clothing and flat shoes are the way to go (cobbled lanes and kitten heels do not mix well, trust me!). 
5. In my personal experience, tips are generally not offered at lunchtime but 10% is standard for dinner

I hope this guide proves useful for your visit. We so look forward to welcoming you to our amazing city for the Eurovision Song Contest 2024! 

Niki

All photography copyright: My Scandinavian Home


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