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Malmö by the Sea: My Local Guide to Sweden's Coastal City












In paid partnership with Malmö Town /  all words and pictures are my own.

Hej där vänner! As many of you know, I've lived in Malmö for over 22 years (where did the time go?), and summer has always been my favourite season. As soon as the sun comes out, the coastline comes alive. People flock to the beaches, cool off in the sea, play volleyball, linger over drinks by the water, and gather to watch those long, beautiful sunsets.

For me, life by the sea is one of Malmö's greatest joys. From morning dips and saunas to beach cafés, sunset spots and waterside restaurants, here are some of my favourite ways to enjoy summer on Malmö's coast, in case you fancy coming for a visit!

City centre and Dockan



One of the best things about Malmö is that you're never far from the water. On a sunny day, grab a pedal boat or hire a small motorboat from Book a Boat and set off to explore the city's canals and waterways. Don't forget to pack a picnic, and then cruise past waterside cafés, leafy parks, and enjoy seeing Malmö from a whole new angle. It's one of my favourite summer activities in the city.

City centre and Dockan
Feeling peckish? Grab fish and chips and a chilled glass of rosé by the harbour at Fisky Business or settle in at Cantin for tasty street food and summer vibes by the water.


Västra Hamnen



Västra Hamnen is my neck of the woods, and I feel really lucky as I think it's one of the best places to spend a summer's day in Malmö. Once an industrial shipyard, it's now home to Turning Torso designed by the world famous architect Santiago Calatrava, and a vibrant waterfront neighbourhood where locals and visitors alike come to swim, sunbathe, stroll along the boardwalk and enjoy life by the sea.

It's a great place to take a dip from one of the many bathing decks, settle in with a picnic, or simply sit back and watch the boats glide by, with famous Öresund bridge and the city of Copenhagen visible in the distance. 



There's always something happening in Västra Hamnen, from sunset salsa dancing to live bands by the sea. This week, a pop-up sauna rolled in, and Tobias treated guests to a sauna and cold-water dip as well as other rituals. It's one of the many reasons I love calling this neighbourhood home.


Make sure you take a wander around the neighbourhood and soak up the architecture. Much of Västra Hamnen was built as part of the Bo01 housing exhibition in 2001, a pioneering project that put sustainable living on the map and transformed the old shipyard into the vibrant waterfront district we know today. I never tire of strolling these streets, there's always a new detail to spot.

Once you've worked up an appetite, you're spoiled for choice. On a sunny day, grab a table at Beach Garden for laid-back seaside vibes, or book a spot at Kontrast (my pick for the best Indian food in town!), or next door, slurp your way through a bowl of ramen or tuck into sushi.

Ribbersborg


Just a few minutes' walk away is Ribersborg beach. With its long stretch of sand and shallow waters, it's especially popular with families. In fact, I spent many happy summer days here when my children were small, building sandcastles, paddling in the sea and enjoying picnics by the shore.

These days, the coastline buzzes with activity all summer long, from beach volleyball and basketball to yoga sessions by the sea. It's a wonderful place to soak up Malmö's laid-back summer atmosphere."

There are countless ways to enjoy the sea here. We love to sail, but if you're just in town for the weekend, you can try everything from wakeboarding and paddle boarding at Malmö Wake Park. Many of the kayaks can be rented through an app, making it easy to head out for an adventure at a moment's notice. The lack of tides makes the water feel a little less intimidating, but always keep an eye on the wind and weather before setting off.


While I've already mentioned saunas, no guide to Malmö's coastline would be complete without Ribersborgs Kallbadhus. Perched at the end of a long pier stretching into the Öresund, this iconic wooden sauna is a true Malmö institution. It's one of the first places my friends and family ask to visit when they come to stay (pictured here are my nieces racing down the pier towards it!), and somewhere I regularly visit with friends too.

The routine is simple: sauna, sea dip, repeat. And don't forget, swimwear stays at home, as bathing is traditionally enjoyed au naturel in separate men's and women's sections. Afterwards, warm up over lunch or a coffee at the café at the end of the pier. Perfect if the weather gods aren't quite cooperating, it is Sweden, after all! 

Feeling peckish but don't fancy the trek out to the pier? You'll find a handful of casual kiosks dotted along the seafront, serving everything from ice creams and sandwiches to hot food. They're perfect for a quick bite between swims!

Limhamn



Continue south and you'll reach Limhamn, a former fishing village with a charming old harbour that's especially nice in summer. We sometimes cycle down there for a bite to eat by the water. Enjoy a pizza and Aperol Spritz at Mastio, cool off with an ice cream from Limhamns Glassmejeri, or settle in for fresh fish and shellfish at Limhamns Fiskrökeri

And, of course, Limhamn has its own kallbadhus, Sibbarps Kallbadhus. Because this is Sweden, and no stretch of coastline would be complete without a sauna!

I have a real soft spot for this one as it's a little quieter than Ribersborg, with a cosy café selling coffee, cakes, open herring sandwiches and locally made ceramics.

On selected Fridays throughout the summer, they host Sip & Sauna evenings. Surely one of the most Swedish ways imaginable to spend a summer evening: sauna, sea dip, drink, repeat.

The owner, Bea, also runs Ateljén just down the road, a lovely restaurant and ceramics studio that's well worth a visit.

Back into the city for the evening!




After a day of swimming, sailing, sauna-hopping and ice cream stops, it's time for one of my favourite summer pastimes: dinner by the water. Malmö really comes into its own on a warm summer evening, when the sea is calm, it's light until 11pm and a seafood supper feels like the only sensible option.

First stop, La Fonderie. One of Malmö's newer waterfront restaurants, this charming French bistro sits beside an inner harbour waterway with views across to the city beyond. On a warm summer evening, it's the kind of place where you can happily while away a few hours over moules-frites and a crisp glass of wine. Inside, you'll find beautiful artwork by Sara Bergman, whose inspiring home I once featured here.





For spectacular sunset views, head to Grand Italian Brasserie on the top floor of Clarion Malmö Live. Order a cocktail, tuck into Spaghetti Vongole and gaze out over the city, and the coastline beyond. It's one of my favourite spots for watching the sun go down. 

I hope you enjoyed my guide to Malmö by the sea! 

Perhaps I'll see you here this summer? We so look forward to welcoming you if so – and hope you love it here as much as we do! 

Visiting in winter? Here's my guide.

If you've got any questions about anything, please do let me know below and I'll be happy to try to help. 

Niki

Ps I'll be back with a home tour very soon!

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Discover Malmö, the Host City of the Eurovision Song Contest 2024!

In paid partnership with Malmö Town

'And twelve points go to.... LOREEN'. Back in May, the Swedish singer and songwriter won the Eurovision Song Contest in front of162 million viewers worldwide. For Sweden this was huge, firstly because it was Loreen's second win, and secondly because I simply cannot express just how big the Eurovision Song Contest is here! Traditionally, the country who wins the contest gets to host the event the following year. And next spring all eyes will be on Malmö, the city chosen to host the Eurovision Song Contest 2024! 

Having moved to Malmö in 2004 - I certainly know a thing or two about this wonderful city and today, I'm going to put the singing aside (except for a little karaoke of course), to share some of my favourite places in Malmö with you, including cafes, restaurants, shops, sculptures, architect, museums and galleries!

Ready to discover this Southern city a short hop from Copenhagen? Step this way for my local guide! 


Stroll through the old cobbled streets and squares of Gamla Staden

Wander through Gamla Staden (the old town) which includes Stortorget - the 'big square' with its majestic buildings and beautifully restored advertising from 1900 and Lillatorg - the picturesque 'small square' buzzing with cafes and restaurants. Take some time strolling around the cobbled residential lanes behind the main sites too,  there are rows of colourful cottages to discover! 

Keep an eye out for the city's architecture, fountains and sculptures

Malmö is well known for Turning Torso - a skyscraper designed by Santiago Calatrava, and of course the magnificent Öresund bridge which spans the Öresund Strait. But make sure you keep your eyes peeled around the city for an incredible array of architecture where old meets new. For a great architectue walk, start at Fiskehoddarna and make your way along Citadellsvägen beside the canal passing Malmöhus slott (the castle), Clarion live and many other exciting landmarks. 

Throughout Gamla Staden and beyond you'll find many incredible fountains, sculptures and artwork. My favourite is 'Det Svenska Tungsinnet' by Marie-Louise Ekman - a crying man in bronze who is always sad despite the wonderful views over the canal! 

Visit the museums and galleries 

Malmö has a thriving art and design scene thanks to Moderna Museet (in a former power station), Konsthallen and Malmö konstmuseum as well as smaller galleries and museums dotted around town - all within an easy walk! You might also be lucky enough to time your visit with the Southern Sweden Design Days or Gallery Open Night! 

Stop for a fika (coffee and sweet treat)

No matter where you are in town, there will be a cafe with first class coffee and a fluffy cinnamon bun waiting for you! In the city centre you'll find the likes of Noir, Solde and Konditori Katarina near the station. But I also love to heading to St Knuts torg where you can pull up a seat beside locals in Uggla kaffebar (above) or Söderberg & Sara (below). 

You also can't get more local than Östra Kaffebaren in Värnhem (pictured below), why not make a morning of it and stroll through lovely Kungsgatan - passing Saint Paul's Church on the way. 

If you're in Limhamn (not far from Hyllie - the site of the Eurovision Song Contest 2024), head to Atelejen for a fika or brunch (below) - and pick up some ceramics made in the in-house workshop afterwards. 

The good news is, when it comes to Swedish fika, there are no limits to the number of times you can indulge yourself in one day - so, why not try out all of these places during your stay?


Shopping for clothes

Malmö town centre is filled with the usual Swedish high street stores including H&M, & Other stories, Lindex, Tiger of Sweden, Åhlens etc. But if like me, you love to discover smaller independent stores, make sure you stop by at Meloa (pictured above) on Davidshallstorg, Miloii, Grandpa and AB Småland. You can also pick up second-hand finds at Rad Susie and Björk & Frihet.

For great outdoor gear head to NaturkompanietPeak Performance, or Stadium

Shopping for design


Malmö has so many great design stores! Nordiska Galleriet (above) recently opened it's doors and is filled with Scandinavian design. 

Tucked away on a lovely old street in Gamla Staden you'll also find the independent interior design store Pepperholm (below) - which focuses on Giclée prints on paper and linen tapestries printed in Sweden as well as well as lamps, ceramics, cushions and other small items for the home (limited opening hours).

Other design stores I love include Norrgavel, Svenssons, Miloii, Bolia, Geijersgatan 53 as well as chains Lagerhaus and Granit

Shopping for antique and second-hand homeware

Tucked away behind Davidshallstorg, you'll find a whole host of small independent boutiques selling everything from antiques like Teddy's Antikshop (pictured above and below) and books to mid-century furniture and ceramics. Most have limited opening times but nearly all are open on Saturdays. 


While on the subject of books, seek out the 'Dawit Isaac Biblioteket - the library of banned books, it's fascinating! 

Restaurants for lunch and dinner

There are so many excellent restaurants in Malmö. I'll start with lunch spots! Davidshallstorg - a square in the town centre is teeming with little restaurants all with the option of indoor or outdoor seating. I particularly like Freja Cafe och Vinbar (above and below) which is open all day and serves an excellent breakfast, fika, lunch or evening meal. Other great brunch and lunch options include Ruths (excellent food, great atmosphere), MJs restaurant and the relaxed food hall Malmö Saluhall. On a Friday, book a table for lunch at popular Västra Station.  

Looking for something more hipster? Head to Möllevången. 

Known for its bohemian, edgy and hip vibe, Möllevången is packed with restaurants serving everything from Indian and Lebanese to Chinese and Iranian. Last Sunday Per and I spent the afternoon in the afternoon sunshine at Ramen to Biiru - a popular Japanese restaurant which is always packed with locals for good reason - the food is excellent! 

Nearby you'll find Scandwich, another favourite! You can't make reservations at either of these places so just rock up and enjoy the atmosphere while you wait for your table! 

In the evening, my favourite dinner places are Bouchon, Occo (I love the decadence of this place and the delicious mezze, plus its great for cocktails), Aster, Elsa, Atmosfär, Gustavino or Bise.  For great Asian food head to Quan (hugely popular for good reason - book well in advance) Soho or Kin Lon, a chinese restaurant with robot service! In my mind, the best Indian in town is served at Kontrast, Ghee by the Sea overlooking the sea and Öresund bridge - it's a Brantmark family favourite! 

Food shopping


Is self-catering an option during your stay? If so, you're in luck! There are many supermarkets all over town, but if you'd like to shop local, head to the farmers markets at Drottningstorget or pick up fruit and veg at the market at Möllevångenstorget (most stalls prefer cash). Möllevången is also a great place to experience Malmö's incredible cultural diversity - and you can buy ingredients for just about any dish! 

For other independent stores, Gram on St Knuts torg (pictured above) is a zero waste shop selling local, organic and sustainable products. You can also buy local eggs and freshly baked sourdough next door at Söderberg & Sara. While in the neighbourhood, take a stroll in Malmö Folkets Park - it offers an entire calendar of events as well as a host of cafes and restaurants and even a reptile centre!

Seafood on the menu? Pick up shellfish, salmon, herring, tuna steaks and many other delicacies from Malmö's largest fish market Fiskehoddarna - a picturesque row of fishing huts by the canal (seen above and below) a stone's throw from Malmöhus slott. I love to stop by for the catch of the day from Blå Hoddan, owned by the brother of a friend of mine who has is own fishing boat. In late spring and summer you can dine-in. 

Looking for some activities? 
By day, take a stroll in one of the city parks - including Pildammsparken, which dates back to the 17th century or Kungsparken, with its canal, windmill and pretty gardens - both beautiful! When friends and family come to visit I also love to rent one of the electric boats from Go Boat or BookABoat and putter around the city canals with a picnic (pick up a baguette at Picnic). 


Feeling sporty? Soak up the amazing atmosphere at a Malmö FF game (locals will tell you they are the best soccer / football team in Sweden!) or learn about ice-hockey by watching Malmö Redhawks play! 


If the sun is shining and the weather is warm, you'll find lots of action at the city beach at Ribbergsborgstranden where, in summer time you can play volleyball and basketball. In the winter, warm up at Ribersgborg kalbadhus (public sauna and pier). I was there yesterday and always leave feeling completely revived! 

For evening activities - Boulebar is always fun for dinner and boules, or get into the Eurovision spirit at the new karaoke bar Moyagi! The art deco style Spegeln is my favourite cinema thanks to the beautiful decor, comfy armchairs and in-saloon bar! For something that little extra you might like to see a performance at Malmö Opera or Malmö Stadsteater or put your problem-solving skills to the test at Sherlocked escape room, before recovering in the cocktail bar. 

Finish the night with a dance to live music on at Paddy's (Friday's and Saturdays) or bust a move among the young and hip at Plan B

Where to stay
MJs, Clarion and Story are all in the heart of town and offer a great night's stay. 

Finally
don't leave Malmö without picking up some chocolate from Malmö Chokladfabrik (the Malmö chocolate factory) store near the central station for some ecological dream chocolate with that little extra! 

Planning your trip? Here are five useful things to know...

1. Malmö is a near cashless city so don't exchange money in advance - credit cards are the way to go (except you would like to visit the market in Möllevången). 
2. Get around on foot or hire a bike. For longer journeys download the easy-to-use Skånetrafiken app for public transport (including the train to and from Copenhagen airport). 
3. Dress for all weather but leave your brolly at home - this is a windy city! Oh, and bring your bathers - just in case you fancy a dip in the Öresund Strait! 
4. Malmö is an understated city - relaxed clothing and flat shoes are the way to go (cobbled lanes and kitten heels do not mix well, trust me!). 
5. In my personal experience, tips are generally not offered at lunchtime but 10% is standard for dinner

I hope this guide proves useful for your visit. We so look forward to welcoming you to our amazing city for the Eurovision Song Contest 2024! 

Niki

All photography copyright: My Scandinavian Home


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