my scandinavian home: Malmö city guide: hip places to eat, drink and shop (design)

Malmö city guide: hip places to eat, drink and shop (design)

Tuesday, 12 July 2016

Have you ever visited Malmö, Sweden? It's been my home for the past 12 years and I'm so incredibly proud of Sweden's third largest city! For those of you wondering about geography (let's face it, I wasn't entirely sure where it was before I moved here) - it's the hub of Southern Sweden (listed 9th place on the New York Times top 52 places to visit in 2016 - if that's not reason enough!), and just over the Öresund bridge (yes, that's The Bridge - apparently there's a special tour these days!), from Copenhagen.  With an abundance of cool new boutiques, restaurants, cafes, and bars popping up all over town, I invited my friend and photographer Valentina Fussell over for the day to capture some of my absolute places to eat, drink and shop in Malmö.....




 - Cafés, restaurants & bars: 

Noir: this is the perfect little café to start your tour (with a freshly brewed coffee of course!), on sunny days you can sit outside and watch the locals cycle by.





Johan P - a fabulous fish restaurant (and fish market) in a former factory just off Lilla Torg - and the perfect place to enjoy oysters, seafood platters and the local catch of the day. It's also great for an early evening apéritif (if only to marvel at the high ceilings, decor and Flos lights).





Bastard - In my mind you can't beat this restaurant for an evening out in Malmö. Not only is the food and service excellent, it's buzzing every night of the week and turns into a popular spot for late night cocktails too. You'll need to book in advance.









Lilla Torg - drinks (or light lunch) at an outdoor table in this old square is also a must (try Moosehead or mello yello). You might also end up at Koi nightclub later on in the evening too...(just as I have done on eh hem a few occasions). 





Boulebar - Another unique place (and a new favourite) - is this establishment on Drottningstorget which combines good food and drink with a game of Boule. Go for brunch on a saturday and sunday with family and friends - or in the evening (brilliant if you're travelling in a group).  Look out for local farmers / fleas markets (and Christmas markets) on the square outside too!







Central - shopping

Miloii is my go to shop for clothes (selling brands such as A.P.C, GANNI and Rodebjer) and lovely things for the home. If you need more convincing - this is the the owner's home.





Blomsterpigen - this is one beautiful flower shop, and even if blooms aren't the most practical item to take home with you, I can still recommend visiting if only to see their magical window display and the little upstairs oasis!






Granit - A firm fixture in my Malmö 'interior shop tour', this is the perfect place to pick up practical items for the home (especially if you love simple, clean style and monochrome). Other favourites (particularly for Scandinavian designer items) include Malmö ModernOlsson & Gerthel, Norrgavel, DesignTorget, Form Design Centre (it's worth going in here for the building alone!) and Svenssons.





Formgruppen - a staple for locally made ceramics (and something unique to take home with you).




Mini Rodini - the cutest Swedish children's brand has opened up a shop just off Lilla Torg - because it would be mean to not pick up something for the little ones too!





St Knut Torg - restaurants & cafés 

This area of Malmö has a local village-feel and is well worth a visit for it's small, privately run cafes and bars. Hop on a bike (bike hire stations are located all over town) and enjoy.....

Söderberg & Sara - sit and read the paper alongside locals in this ecological bakery / cafe.




Spoonery - I often go here at lunchtime for the pared-back interior and chilli beef stew - mmmm!





No.6 Nip around the corner for a post-lunch coffee at this itsy, bitsy local cafe created by the previous owner of this home. He's since sold it but the decor and local vibe remains the same.




And if you like wine and cheese don't miss the neighbourhood hang-out- Kiez. There's a great write-up and a few of pictures of it here. For dancing the night away to live music - you can also head over the road to Cuba Café in Folkets park for a salsa (summer time only).

St. Knuts Torg - shopping

Flora Linea - Owned by Maja Ljungdahl, this little shop is a complete find! Well worth a visit if you love the idea of a hanging Kokedama (aka a Japanese bonsai where the root grows in a special soil wrapped in a moss ball) and seriously cute ceramics.





Kalbadhus / Ribbersborg - No visit to Malmö is complete without a visit to the sauna (this one's located out on a pier). When my family visit from London they call it 'the naked sauna', much to the bafflement of my Swedish husband - I mean, is there any other kind of sauna?! The traditional style saunas are divided up into female, male and a mixed section (note - don't make the mistake of thinking the teeny square cloth they hand to you when you go in is a towel - it's just for sitting on) after which a cold plunge into the Öresund strait is de rigueur! In the winter they'll cut a circle in the ice - so there's no excuse! Treat yourself to a hot chocolate (or something stronger) in the cafe / restaurant afterwards or enjoy the Sunday brunch (bentwood chairs alert!) with views over the sea and Ribbersborg beach.




I have to say this guide only scratches the surface of all the great places to eat, drink and shop in Malmö and we haven't even touched on Möllevången (with it's many, many fab restaurants and bars). Malmö guide II to follow imminently (once I've enticed Valentina back from Atlanta!).

In the meantime, here's a quick guide:

Möllevången (or 'Möllan')- Söder om Småland (ecological beers and great food), Malmö Brewing co. (Malmö brews for beer lovers), Tempo and Belle Epoche (for good food and cocktails).

Davidshallstorg: B.A.R (go for the taster menu!) and Escama (tapas on a balmy evening al fresco).

Places to stay:  a quick search on Air BnB has come up with some lovely little places including: a studio in Möllan, an apartment in Triangeln (great location, in walking distance of everything and near the tube). Or this beautiful home in Västra Hamnen, an area by the sea renowned for it's architecture and swimming (as well as a handful of cafés and restaurants) and 10 minutes by bike into the city centre.

Best time to visit - April to October (when the days are longer and the weather a little milder) or December (for the Christmas markets).

If you've visited Malmö and have some tips you'd like to share (or if you have any questions) you're so welcome to add them in the comments below.

I hope you make your way here soon. As they say in Sweden - Välkommen!

Credit: All photography by Valentina Fussell.


25 comments:

  1. Great guide and gorgeous pics! Definitely makes me want to visit!

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  2. I visited Malmo twice, once for a wedding of friends, and we kicked off a holiday a few years later starting in Malmo. That was about 14 years ago I think. We stayed in tents at a camping looking at The Bridge. The swimming culture was odd, the Swedes swim and then put on another (dry) swimsuit and hang the wet one out to dry. In the evening the Turkish/ Morocan inhabitants would barbeque in the same field (it explained the burnt spots in the grass).
    We looked up tango venues and went out doing that a few times in the evening. I loved David Design at the time but I think it doesn't exist anymore. Upon arrival (by boat from Germany) we had breakfast in an oldfashioned luxury hotel. I can recommend that.

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    1. Sounds like a memorable trip! It must be the campsite in Sibbarp?

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  3. Hi,
    I am actually coming to visit at the end of July. Each place I visit I try to find and old enamel sign (street or other) in the language of the country I am in. Can you recommend any second hand shops where I might look?
    Thanks!

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    1. What a coincidence! Such a fun use with the signs. You could try sopstationen. Have a wonderful time!

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  4. I have never been in Malmö, nor in Sweden, just Norway two times. But I am definitely in love with Scandinavia, so my steps will lead there very often and who knows, maybe one day, we will move there..it is one of my dreams to live in Sweden or Norway.. <3

    Anyway, thank you for this rich guide, I bookmarked it and will use it once we will travel there =)

    Michael
    www.ontheleaf.net

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    1. One day Michael, one day! In the meantime you must schedule a visit to Sweden (which can of course double us as a recce...).

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  5. We had to skip Malmö on our 14-day trip through Sweden, simply because there was no time left for it. But we promised ourselves, we'll revisit Sweden, and Malmö of course is on the top of the list! I enjoyed your guide :-)

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    1. Ah what a shame, but such a great excuse to return to Sweden! Happy to hear you enjoyed my guide, I hope it proves useful some day soon.

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  6. I went to Malmö four years ago on a summer trip to Sweden and Denmark and I loved it. The city has a very relaxed atmosphere, we had a great time ! We stayed in a lovely airbnb with a perfect scandinavian decor, stuffed our face with kanelbullar and wander through the streets exploring cafes and boutiques.
    Thanks for your guide, I would love to come back and try your recommendations.

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    1. Sounds like my kind of trip! You must return one day - you can never eat enough kanelbullar in your life!

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  7. I've been living in London for the last 11 years but I grew up in Malmö and my family lives there so I go back regularly. I have to say that your guide is super lovely and definitely highlighted some places I love myself, as well as some places I need to check out when I go home end of the month. Thanks so much for sharing!

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    1. How fun that you go to some of the same places when you come back to visit family and friends, maybe next time we'll bump into one another!

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  8. We visited Malmo in May. We took the train from Copenhagen for a day trip and wished we had planned more time. We got of the train and one member of our group said, "I already like Sweden better"! We took a boat tour (tour guide Karen was great), ate at Mello Yello and did more shopping in Malmo than we did anywhere else on the trip. Loved it.

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    1. I love that! Over the 12 years I've lived here it's changed so much and just gets better and better, so exciting to be a part of the transformation. You must visit again soon!

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  9. You know, I've never been to Sweden! The closest I have ever come is Ikea... Looks like a stunning city and a beautiful place to live. Very jealous!

    The Blonde B

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    1. You must come to Sweden, it's a beautiful country! So varied and so much to do. And definitely swing by Malmö when you do!

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  10. Lägg till lite fler ställen kring Möllan med bilder så är den guiden awesome!

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    1. Thank you! I agree, unfortunately we only had a short time to photograph everything, I think we need a whole extra day just dedicated to Möllan and all the lovely places! Look out for a guide II at some point in the future! Your tips are welcome too...:)

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  11. We visited a couple of summers ago and loved it! By the end of our stay we wanted live there!

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  12. Looking at this guide makes me want to visit again!

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  13. Looking at this guide makes me want to visit again!

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  14. I spent a few weeks in Malmö in January 2015 with my now husband--who was working there for a bit-- and Spoonery was our favorite place and right around the corner from his apartment! I loved Malmö and can't wait to go back someday, hopefully in summer!

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